Reviews: A to Z

“Hi Mike
I saw in the paper the other day that Faigain in Old Greek means to eat – strange coincidence that!”
 
Abbotts, The
LOCATION: 73 High Street, Stanstead Abbotts, Herts., SG13 8AS
TELEPHONE: 01920 870032
PARKING/ ACCESS: on site
CUISINE: Fish and Steak
COVERS: 64
FOOD:    *****   :  High standard, well prepared
AMBIANCE:   ****    :  Fresh and welcoming
SERVICE:  ****    :  Plated; better than average staff
VALUE:  ***     :  Get what you pay for
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £80:00

We went here after hearing of a change of ownership from the previous Italian restaurant; our first attempt was thwarted – too close to Christmas. Our second was a Friday evening when we found the venue quite full, but not packed. The new owners Darren Humphrey and Paul Owen, ably assisted by Chef Romuald Richomme and Matthew Humphrey (younger brother of Darren), have brought a wealth of experience with them.  The restaurant is advertised as a sea food and steak restaurant, but vegetarians could eat here happily.

The menu is extensive, with a separate list for “starters”, “seafood”, “meats and Vegetarian” mains, “Deserts” and drinks. The only minor shortcoming is with the selection of wines; the list is quite basic, with reasonable prices; but there is an absence of  anything of quality, the closest is a Barolo at £29:95.  Restaurant manager Matt. has an opportunity to add something exciting!
The welcome as we arrived was good, and the three of us were shown to our table promptly. Décor was modern but not glitzy: Comfortable chairs, tables covered with white linen, and a good line in cutlery, plus the inevitable eternal flame.. Almost before our bottoms hit the chairs, we were being asked what we wanted to drink!  Our jug of water arrived with ice and lemon, and some drunken looking tumblers. We chose a Rioja to go with our meal and were very impressed with it. It was priced at £19:50.
Starters ranged from soup of the day at £4:95 to scallops wrapped in bacon at £8:75 which “V” ordered. She found the accompanying salad was overdressed with balsamic vinegar, and awarded 3+ points. “J” had the antipasti platter, which included humous, rocket, mozzarella and tomatoes costing £6:95. The observation being: “humous, that’s different!” given 4 points. My chicken liver paté was just OK, being rather smooth for my liking, and I had to ask for more of the miniature French toast; again only 3.

On to the main dishes. The quality of steak was excellent, but a rare sirloin arrived barely pink – not good enough! The fillet ordered medium-rare, was hardly that too, but very tender and well flavoured. The chosen sauce was pepper, which was just right: not knocking one’s taste buds for six.   The steaks were served with chips only, not even a tomato or mushroom garnish, thus we were obliged to buy extra vegetables to accompany the dishes  at £3:25 per helping. These were well cooked, but the additional purchase caused irritation.

The three desserts, all at £5:25 were enjoyed. The coffee flavoured Kahlua crème brulé was given 4 points by “J”, an expert such dishes. The Tarte Tatin of the day, was pear; “V”. gave another 4 points, despite the fact that the kitchen had run out of crème anglaise! I only gave my profiteroles 3 points, as despite the excellent pastry, the chef’s chocolate sauce was very, very sweet, and had to be chased around the plate as it was so runny!

One final comment: personally I do like to receive a fully itemised bill; the supply of an abbreviated summary makes it difficult to check whether it is yours or someone else’s!

Revue date: February 2007


The Anchor
LOCATION: Cambridge Road, Wadesmill
TELEPHONE: 01920 462861
PARKING/ ACCESS: Own large car park; level access. Stairs inside.
CUISINE: traditional English
COVERS: 80+
SMOKING: No – but permitted in bar
FOOD: *** 
AMBIANCE: ** 
SERVICE:  *** 
VALUE: ****

 
Situated at the junction of the A10 and B158 at Wadesmill, the Anchor will be known by most readers as the “old Beefeater”. In the last couple of years it’s reputation has sunk to a very low level. The new owners are trying very hard to reverse this decline by heavy advertising and promotions. This will involve a total refurbishment,  and some of the works will be seen by the visitor.  The outside patio and entrance are now very attractive, but the interior is rather tired and presumably will be attacked in the near future.  The management have a friendly staff and the atmosphere is still cozy; after all it is a very old coaching inn with a lot of atmosphere. There is a bar with an entrance off the main road; the car park has its own entrance at the rear. On arrival  the diners are shepherded into the bar for  drinks “while you wait”.
 The menu is extensive enough for all tastes; after all they are trying to get their customers back. The four starters tried were: fried goats cheese with a balsamic salad, a smooth chicken liver paté  with toasted bloomer bread, prawn cocktail on a plate of dressed salad – all these were given a mark of 4 out of 5; and Mediterranean medallions [cakes of sun dried tomatoes with mozzarella cheese a and olives] which was given a 3. I have to note that it took 30 minutes from the time the order was taken to its arrival; we then had to remind them about the water requested; the Chilean Merlot at £11 was very drinkable but it was not “served” as one now expects.
The main courses arrived after 90 minutes and all received 3 points, with the exception of the vegetarian option: a brie and broccoli Wellington, which my friend gave a full 5. The other mains were: chicken Korma which was let down by the rice accompaniment; a roast fillet of pork tenderloin with a sage and onion stuffing, and finally a char grilled peppered lamb rump with roasted vegetables and new potatoes – this dish was decidedly chewy, the lamb was not leaping around this Spring – last year perhaps. and the vegetables I suspect were not freshly bought before cooking.. Puddings were all at £3:45 and a selection is available.
We all agreed the meal was good value and the atmosphere was congenial. Worth a visit with friends; not really suitable for a special occasion… yet.
By the way if you book by phone ask if there are any promotional deals.
Review  Date: 11-04

Anton’s
LOCATION: great Hallingbury Manor, Great Hallingbury, Bishops Stortford, CM22 7Tj
TELEPHONE: 01279 506475
PARKING/ ACCESS: large
CUISINE: modern European
COVERS: 60
FOOD:    *****   :  Innovative and well prepared
AMBIANCE:   *****   :  excellent
SERVICE:  *****   :  faultless
VALUE:  ****    :  high value = high price
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): Lunch, £58:70

Discovered this gem on the fringes of Hertfordshire – right by Stansted Airport – because of a promotion for lunch ,which now appears to be permanent  Right away we would like to state that this establishment went out of its way to promote itself as a place to return to. At the time of visiting there was a lot of building work and refurbishment evident [ who can blame them when it is so close to this international airport].
Our welcome was warm and polite, and we were ushered into the modern dining room. This was tastefully designed, being essentially wood, but with large murals indicating an interest in jazz. The ecru coloured linen and silver set upon them was totally in keeping; whilst the view through the large windows was of an attractive lake. Another plus is the maroon uniform of the staff, along with a more formal style  for the management, there was a sufficient number to ensure a high level of attention. Chef Anton Edelmann was visible at all times, without being intrusive.
After being shown promptly to our table, we were offered still or sparkling water for our glasses, and a basket of  bread rolls, with about 8 varieties to choose from. (Neither of these items was chargeable, at the time).
The promotion was three courses for £15, and whilst the portions were small, they were perfectly presented; and we gave a full five points to all we sampled. The menu invited us to order a selection of starters to “share”. There were three of us and three starters, so we said “yes please”. This caused some light hearted consternation as one was a soup! Had no one asked this before? Anyway all credit to the staff, one bowl of summer vegetable soup arrived with three spoons. The other starters were ‘poached egg with parmesan and mushrooms and spinach, and, rabbit salad with mushrooms and pickled beetroot. All greatly enjoyed!
Main dishes were sea trout with rosti potatoes, leek, and tomato caper salad. Delicious. The second dish was ballontine of chicken with spinach and vegetable fritters, with a warm horseradish frosh (sic). To be honest this froth was without substance or flavour, but originality – ok. Wine selection was not too difficult, as we went for the house rosé, a Loire at £17:00. The wine list is extensive and could set you back a lot of money, but economy is possible. Presentation was of the highest standard, and the waiting staff were very well trained – always there if needed. Cosmin the assistant manager was on duty, and supervised discretely and efficiently.
Desserts were limited in choice, and change according to weather perhaps: it was gratinated strawberries in a wine jelly and ice cream on the day we were there.
Overall a very enjoyable experience, and highly recommended.
Perhaps you expect at least one critical observation: I do not like “open” salt and pepper; I do not trust the hygiene of previous table dwellers!
Finally I was interested to note a number of special events, ranging from a lot of jazz  to cookery classes. All very tempting…

Updated date: January 2009


 Auberge du Lac 
LOCATION: Brocket Hall, off B653, near Welwyn Garden City  B653 towards Harpenden. Parking – easy, after a gated entrance.
TELEPHONE: 01707 368888
PARKING/ACCESS: Easy short walk to restaurant; steps within building 
CUISINE: Inspired French, adapted to English taste 
COVERS: perhaps 12 tables 
SMOKING: Yes
FOOD: +++

ATMOSPHERE/AMBIANCE: +++++

SERVICE: ++++

Total cost for two for lunch £85 [lunch fixed at £57].  £££ .Best option for value is the lunch time “special” Evening meals are best described as “pricey”

Proprietors and Managers of restaurants mostly forget how fragile their image can be. A bad telephone manner when booking, an indifference to one’s arrival, overlooking a request at the table, even assuming that you will contribute to their staff’s remuneration can easily sour an image. Certainly blatant overcharging will affect the average bon viveur.
As the first review of this publication I can do no worse than pick on a local institution whose reputation is firmly built on many years service:  “Auberge du Lac”. As this is a review for an older age group, it was the “special priced lunch” that four of us decided upon.
The location of l’Auberge is within the grounds of Brocket Hall [don’t worry you do not get buried if you fall out with the owners], on the edge of Broadwater lake. As a former hunting lodge it has a unique atmosphere within quite a small building. Reception and lounge is on the ground floor. There is some accommodation above; and the dining room is downstairs. This room is light and airy, with tables laid very traditionally upon linen table cloths with linen napkins. As all diners have booked, the greetings are personal and professional. You can either go straight to eat or spend some time in a comfortable lounge with aperitifs choosing from the a la carte menu. All is very calm and relaxed. Once in the dining room service is smooth and efficient, but never rushed. We were there from 12 noon until 3pm; Looking around one will be impressed by the sparkling ambiance of the simple furnishings and of course the view across the lake. Brocket Hall is establishing itself as a hotel, conference centre and golf venue, etc. so there may be international visitors eating.
Faultless service at reception, with aperitifs being available, but prices high, e.g. bucks fizz at £13; cranberry and orange £10.
Table service excellent, iced water appeared.  Restricted menu included 3 starters; our party had duck and foie gras ballontine with a lentil dressing (absolutely delicious) or salmon gravalax with citrus beurre (very delicate and a good balance of flavours). All of us were offered a choice of four breads, continuously topped up.
Of the 3 mains, all were tried: Herb risotto with pine nuts and mozzarella was decreed “prepared superbly”. Pan fried halibut with saffron polenta “melted in the mouth”. Confit Morteau sausage with crushed new potatoes and mustard grain sauce was absolutely full of flavour: wonderful; I think I have converted my wife to sausage and mash!
3 puddings: a milk chocolate mousse that melted in the mouth: yummy. Rhubarb clafoutis, which was more of a tart than a clafoutis, but delicious. Cheese was taken by me in lieu of a pudding; and what a good decision. A choice of perhaps twelve regional French cheeses that would satisfy anyone’s pallet, with walnut bread.  House wine was by Yielles Vignes of Vanel: chardonnay and cabernet-sauvignon The Fixed cost per person was £28:50 including two glasses of wine. At this price this is not a cheap lunch, but Jean-Christophe Novelli presents his dishes faultlessly with a fine eye for appearance.
If you go for a week-day evening dinner the price is from £35. A la carte is always available - each dish priced: starters from £6:50, main from: £20 and puddings from £8; wines are extensive and again you pay for rarity and quality. You would expect to pay about £70 a la carte per head. Our party of four arrived at noon, and the small dining room quickly filled, so booking is essential, average age of clients was over 50, on this occasion.
Overall view: this mid week menu is good value. Evening meals a bit on the expensive side BUT who does not like a bit of pampering for a special occasion? Just the place to take your mistress, or even your wife!
Review  Date:7-04
NB June 2006 - Novelli has departed; has the standard changed?

Bean Tree, The
LOCATION:  Leyton Road, Harpenden, AL5 2HU
TELEPHONE: 01582 460901
PARKING/ ACCESS: on street
CUISINE: Modern French
COVERS: 70
FOOD:    *****   :  superb
AMBIANCE:   *****   :  just right
SERVICE:  *****   :  high quality
VALUE:  *****   :  high quality = high price
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons):  £91:50

We went here with a friend, on a rather dull February day; but found we left after an excellent lunch in a very good state of mind. On the edge of Harpenden Common, we can only guess at how attractive the outside patio is on a sunny day, but the interior décor was of a very high standard.
We were warmly welcomed by the staff and immediately shown into the dining area. This room is very attractive with tables set with glasses and silver ware on crisp linen table cloths. Menus were brought and water made available at this time.  The lunch and dinner menus appear to be identical, and at the same price, so one may consider lunch expensive, or dinner a bit of a bargain. Our waiter Mantas was always to hand to explain the way the selections worked. Each of the eight starters and main courses was priced individually, but it is possible, with a restricted choice to have two or three courses at a fixed price (£19, and £21:75). Also on offer is the “lunch wine offer”, which allows you to have two glasses of wine and a coffee for a mere £7:50. The other charge which will appear on your bill is a service charge of 12.5% - so called discretionary. It took longer than usual to decide upon our choices, there was a lot to tempt us…
J decided on a starter of goat’s cheese stuffed with Parma ham and baked in a filo pastry, with a balsamic “jus” (meaning a vinegar dressing). This was £8:75, and given a full five points: absolutely delicious, and a melt in your mouth experience. M and our guest had seared foie gras, caramelised apple (actually baked and reduced), with figs and a rich port dressing. This is best described as ambrosia. Absolutely wonderful: perhaps not politically correct to say so, but there we go.  To complement this, a bread basket was brought; again a wonderful selection of home baked rolls, with at least four varieties to choose from.
The house wine which arrived at this time was a very drinkable Shiraz, and two full measures were provided at the special price.
The South African chef is producing some very interesting main dishes, M and J, both chose best end of lamb, with braised aubergine and courgette with a rosemary jus. We both requested medium to well done, and that’s how it came. Full marks for this dish, the lamb was cooked to perfection, and was extremely tender, the garnishes were all that was required, but if you did order extra vegetables, be warned, each serving will cost £4:75. Does this mean the chef thinks it unnecessary? Let’s be charitable.
Desserts included a crème brulé with poached raspberries and vanilla shortbread, declared perfect by J. My choice was a cheesecake of vanilla, lime and lemon with strawberry ice cream and almond tuille. This was a mixture of perhaps too many flavours, so I ate it in two stages, first the ice cream with the tuille, and then the cheesecake. Both selections really rather good, a four point mark here.
Compliments all round; highly recommended.
Parking during the day may be a problem, if the weather is inclement.
Revue date: 2007, February


Bistro , Riverside
LOCATION: Riverside Garden Centre, on the B158, just outside Hertford
TELEPHONE: 01992 501502
PARKING/ ACCESS: Own large car park
CUISINE: Modern European
COVERS: 60
SMOKING: No smoking
FOOD:  ****
Comment:  A good selection of modern dishes
AMBIANCE:   ***
Comment: once in the bistro the atmosphere is crisp and efficient; however access needs to be improved – but this is planned.
SERVICE:  ****
Comment: The Thai staff are smart and welcoming
VALUE: ****

Russell and Jo have not had it easy at the Riverside Garden Centre, but they are obviously natural entrepreneurs. Their newest venture is to create an eating place that provides good value with excellent cooking – placed within the garden centre complex on the edge of the river Mimram. Arrival is a trifle disconcerting, as one wanders through the well stocked garden shop, then through the tea room, and then finally into the modern dining area. The welcome was very warm and extremely polite from the Thai manager downwards. It may be a little picky, but there were some language problems from the deferential junior staff.
Fixed price two course meals are available at lunch time (£14:95), and some dinners (£16:95). If you go à la carte, you will find our guide price applies to most courses.
Our Eau de Trois Vallée arrived promptly as did our wine. The wine list was limited in choice, but it’s a Bistro, so house wine should be OK – and it was.
First courses were baked goat’s cheese with a salad dressed with a pepper pesto: really an excellent starter, as was the smoked trout and onion tart served with a horseradish dressing; both given a full five points. When it came to mains, my ordered fillet steak was of good quality, but not he best of cuts, hence only 3 points; the pan fried duck with braised red cabbage came with a port and orange sauce – nicely sharp. This given 4 points. The vegetables accompanying were a usual selection, but nicely “al dente”.  The deserts appear to be made in the kitchen, being a crème brulée – given a full five points, and a sort of “pear Hélène” {spiced pear with dark chocolate sauce (is there any other kind?) and ice cream: given four out of five points. Finally a good quality coffee was served by the happy staff.
All in all an enjoyable visit. When we finally identified ourselves, after paying the bill, Russell was only too willing to admitting the minor shortcomings, and indicated that plans were well in hand to overcome these. I know that a large number of our peer group have been and been pleased with the attitude of this new venue, and have booked group events rapidly. I wish the venture well, and am happy to recommend it.
Review  Date:3-06

NB: June 2006 - chef has changed; awaiting reports

Boot, The
LOCATION: Sarratt WD3 6BL
TELEPHONE: 
PARKING/ ACCESS:
CUISINE: Pub style
COVERS: 24
SMOKING: No
FOOD:   ***
Comment: adequate
AMBIANCE:   ***
Comment: Country pub
SERVICE:  **
Comment: Fair
VALUE: ***

Off the beaten track but between Watford and Hemel, we went for lunch and were warmly welcomed by the staff. Apart from regular bar snacks there is a blackboard with the day’s (week’s) offerings. We chose lamb cutlet, and a liver and bacon casserole, neither of which was very inspired. When asked whether the liver was lamb, no one knew: the casserole had been cooking for so long it was virtually tasteless. The puddings were expensive, being £3:75 for quite a poor bought in selection (ours were a caramel shortbread slice and what is best described as a slice with ice cream), also ordered at the bar. Wines as well as beers and soft drinks are also chosen at the bar. There were a dozen or so diners – all in the bar area: the restaurant was deserted.  The plated meals came promptly, and were not exceptional, but certainly above normal pub standard. The kitchen does not really keep up to the standard of the restaurant staff. We feel that you would not want to travel far to eat at this pub, it is not exceptional.  If you are looking for a typical village pub however it fits the bill admirably; in delightful surroundings.
Review  Date: 6-06
Brookman’s
LOCATION: Bradmore Green, Brookman’s Park. Hatfield, AL9 7QW
TELEPHONE: 01707 664144
PARKING/ ACCESS: own parking
CUISINE: modern European
COVERS:
FOOD:    ****     :  Well prepared and presented
AMBIANCE:   *****   :  has a wow factor
SERVICE:  *****   :  top class
VALUE:  ****     :  good value
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £66:50

We had two very good reasons for this visit. The first was because we are always pleased when we go to one of the other establishments in this small group (The Vine in both Ware and Cambridge), and our friends had happy memories of the town about 30 years ago. Neither of us was disappointed. BBL holdings which is run by a couple of young men deserves to succeed.
The 1930’s style building (the Brookman Hotel) has had a few superficial changes on the outside, but when one enters the interior had been completely and very tastefully brought into the 21st century. Our friends could not get over the transformation. The entry takes you into a bar area, and then a few steps more into the dining room, which joy upon joy, has some soft furnishings to absorb back ground noise. Tim, one of the partners, who is fostering this venture, accepted the compliments modestly.
The wine list is extensive and can be pricey: perhaps created with an eye on the local gentry. We the house Merlot at £15:95, which was a French sourced product, this and the drinking water were served throughout the meal.
Starters tried were Venison pâté - the two men gave this a full 5 points, full of flavour, coarse, and an excellent starter, complete with special bread. The tomato and mozzarella salad and the tomato soup were both declared excellent, visually attractive, and given full marks. The main courses were again a delight to the eye.
J had roast lamb rump with peppers, rocket and aubergine, cooked exactly how she had requested it; just slightly pink – a full five points awarded. D. asked what the catch of the day was; and despite my light hearted suggestion that it could be a chicken; chose this as manager Stuart ignored the geriatric joke and indicated it was skate. This came with wilted spinach and crispy shallots and a “jus”; D. tried to give more than the maximum of five. The final main course was described as char grilled veal rump with a chorizo and borlotti cassoulet – a bit on the spicy side, and gremolata. Without batting an eye lid our server explained what this was (olive oil with lemon and lemon juice). Full marks for trained staff. The veal was very tender, but without much evidence of grilling, it was more like osso bucco in appearance, and was lacking in flavour. Perhaps overpowered by the cassoulet. A pity, it reduced the points to 4 out of five. The desserts were all claimed to have been made in the kitchen, and were all deemed ok by us all -nothing outstanding. The four were tried: lemon tart, chocolate mousse, crème brûlée and sticky toffee pudding. None will disappoint, but they could be considered expensive (£5 minimum).
Tim Lightfoot one of the partners was around all the time, in fact he came to chat at the end of the meal. Stuart the manager, was always visible, and was involved in the serving process. The other staff were excellent and well trained; making us feel wanted and cared for.
Highly recommended.
Revue date: July 2008

Bush Hall Hotel - Kiplings
Hatfield
TELEPHONE: 01707 262626
PARKING/ ACCESS: plenty of spaces, level access.
CUISINE: European
COVERS: 50
SMOKING: no
FOOD:   **     Comment: poor preparation
AMBIANCE:   ***    Comment: pleasant surroundings
SERVICE:  **     Comment: needs attention
VALUE: ***   Comment: reasonable

Too many reports of poor service, and the kitchen letting the restaurant manager down: who does his best with apparently a band of South African waiters.
Review  Date:1-06

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Cabinet, the
LOCATION: High Street, Reed, Royston, Herts. SG8 8AH
TELEPHONE: 01763 848366
PARKING/ ACCESS: on site
CUISINE: Modern European
COVERS:
FOOD:    ***     :  Wide selection, mostly well prepared
AMBIANCE:   ****    :  very pleasant
SERVICE:  ****    :  greatly improved, but with reservations
VALUE:  ***     :  get what you pay for!
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons):
£40 (special promotion)


We have visited here several times over the last few years; it has to be said with a varying degree of satisfaction Several years ago this pretty 16th century inn was re launched with a celebrity chef in charge, and it was deemed successful by its diners. This was firmly aimed at the up-scale market. Sadly the business fell apart, and for a short while it did not find its feet. However, the new ownership with Simon Smith and Kevin Bell along with new chef Richard King have re-launched yet again. It looks as if they have got their act together.  A recent visit for lunch showed a “gastro pub” type menu.
The service was much improved, and there was obvious pride in their new image.
It is possible to eat here at different levels: from pub snacks to full blown multi-course dinners. The price bracket is wide, from single figures for snacks to about £40. Set Sunday lunch is £25.
Specific dishes we tried were a starter of spinach soup with croutons(4 points); cooked halloumi cheese with a Thai sauce – given a full 5 points, whereas the cured Scottish salmon with rocket and pesto was poor (only 2 points). The mains included grilled Buntingford sausages with a bean cassoulet and gratin potatoes. The sausages were not the best, being rather tough and not that easy to eat (only 3 points). However, the caramelised onion tart with mozzarella cheese and a mixed salad was very acceptable and given 4+ points. The grilled salmon with leek potato cake beans and fennel salad along with an orange butter sauce was deemed too muddled and only given 3 points.  Home made ice cream was excellent, and “J” enjoyed her platter of French and English cheeses.
A recent visit with a group produced some interesting observations:
a)despite a variation in requirements (well done, rare, etc), a collection of rump steaks were all cooked to the same “medium” tenderness – further cooking was required by a couple of diners.
b).much more damming, when a customer who had ordered a glass of Pinotage found a heavy sediment in his glass, and pointed this out to the young waiter, the first response was to “wait as he was busy”. When pressed to look, his next response was along the lines of “what do you want me to do about it?”  When told, a fresh glass was brought with some bad grace by the manager. That customer will not return for sure.
Revue date: June 20007.
Never one to miss an offer we returned to see if the ”Telegraph” promotion would shed light on promised changes after our report above. We are pleased to report that the new manager, Dawn Abrams, has really got her act together, with a new team, including chef Christian Shotter. New dining room staff are more experienced and provide a personal and efficient service. Our two course, £10 meal was given high marks, and was a good promotional advertisement for the new team. The soup of the day was white onion and red peppers with crotons; and a pickled herring and onion and olive salad was well received – both given 4+ points. Main courses of seared tuna steak and curried potatoes with mange-tout and a mango sauce was a delightful composition, given 5 points; whilst the rump steak with chips and a rocket and onion confit was awarded 4 points. Do they grow their own onions I wonder? The provision of 125ml of Bordeaux was an added pleasure for a meal that although promotional, was full size.
I have no reservations in recommending this re vitalised venue.
Revision: October 2007

College Arms  NOW CLOSED
LOCATION: 40 London Road, Hertford Heath, SG13 7PW
TELEPHONE: 01992 500668
PARKING/ ACCESS: own car park
CUISINE: European
COVERS: 40
FOOD:    *****   :  excellent
AMBIANCE:   ****     :  modern, can be noisy
SERVICE:  ***      :  good, tending to poor
VALUE:  ***      :  top drawer prices for top drawer quality
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £63:50

An exceptional transformation of the previous village pub makes one gasp in admiration at the investment that Spice Inns have made here. Gone is the rather dismal interior, and instead there is a bright modern interior.   A lot of wood had been lavished on this refurbishment, new floors, panelled walls and modern wood tables and chairs: an outstanding impression as one enters. It is also worth noting that the outside has been tidied up too, which makes parking much easier. The outside signage sports the Spice Inn’s Pharmaceutical logo: a mortar and pestle that can be seen at the Hillside in Hertford too. The pub bar has been completely updated and this has a large lounge area attached to it. The transformed restaurant is towards the rear of the building, and one is shown through by the pleasant waiting staff, under the watchful eye of Simon, the establishment’s manager.
The dinner menu changes regularly according to ingredient availability; and there will be enough selection for anyone to be satisfied [there does seem to be a preponderance of fish dishes]. We went on a Saturday evening, having booked, and found the diners arrived at various times throughout the evening: the impression given is that you have your table for as long as you want.
After we gave our order, cut fresh bread arrived along with a dish of olive oil and balsamic vinegar Our starters were all delicious and given the accolade of a full 5 points for all. Our chosen wine was a French Gamay at £16:50, rather pricey, but very acceptable. The wine list was adequate: not too long, and with a fair selection, but not at the lower end of restaurant prices. Our jug of Eau de Trois Vallée was brought at the same time as the wine, and aforementioned bread. The starters all had a price around £7, which meant we judged the quality closely. The highly appreciated dishes were: a goats cheese tartlet with a dressed salad; brown and white crab with a different salad; and pan fried foie gras with apple and toasted brioche. This latter was extremely tender and light to eat.
Main courses were a seared calf’s liver with mash and onion gravy. My friend J. was enthusiastic about this! Friend D. and I had pan fried Barbary male (sic) duck breast with braised endive and a pomegranate sauce. We did attempt to clarify the gender of the said duck, but no one could offer any help! The meat was cooked to our requirements (just off pink), and was a melt in the mouth experience. The sauce was just right and we gave a full 5 points for this. The calf’s liver was awarded 4 out of 5. These were all priced around £15, and were adequate without any additions. Side vegetables are priced extra at £3.
The remaining main dish was veal with a caffeoli sauce and boulangère potatoes, J asked for information about the sauce was told it is an oyster base. Being a bit apprehensive about this, the dish was brought with the sauce “on the side”, but it was fine and J gave a full five points for this dish.
The puddings, all at £5:50 got 4 points. The crème brulé, lemon tart and Tarte Tatin, were all slightly below the best. The Tarte Tatin for instance was not really caramelised, and the pastry a bit soggy. Apparently one of the sous-chefs had departed this day, so cooking and service were a little delayed throughout the evening. We went without coffee as it was now approaching 11pm (we had sat down at 730pm).and the noise level from fellow diners was now very high. As noted the surfaces in the restaurant are all hard and sound-reflective. Some sound absorbent materials would be a good idea.
Recommended for its menu, but with some reservations about the ambiance, noise level, and slow service. Some fine tuning is needed to justify the near London price structure in this location.
Revue date: June 2007
Another visit with a group did not work out too well, the level of service being well below expectations – mostly through the lack of trained staff. The senior lady on duty just could not cope, despite her valiant efforts. Provision of the dishes was unacceptably slow, partly because of the departure of the chef as we arrived. We were told he had variously broken his leg or badly bruised himself; anyway he went off with a friend in a taxi, leaving the waiting staff and a kitchen hand to set to with our meals. Sadly the recent change of staff has not had the desired effect on improving the image. More work has to done if survival is expected.
Revised: October 2007
Visiting with friends for lunch, we found an improvement in service, and the quality of food maintained.
Revised March 2008

Coltsfoot Hotel
LOCATION: Coltsfoot Lane, Bulls Green, Datchworth, Herts. SG3 6SB
TELEPHONE: 01438 212800
PARKING/ ACCESS: large gated car park
CUISINE: modern English
COVERS: 50
FOOD:    ****    :  mixed
AMBIANCE:   ****    :  modern
SERVICE:  ***     :  not up to scratch, see the comments
VALUE:  ****    :  rather on the pricey side
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £80

Describing itself as a country retreat, perhaps explains why it is so difficult to find after dark. Sign posting is poor, and if you use sat-nav you could finish up in the nearest pub The Horns. The entrance is a rather long way down a narrow lane, but well lit when you arrive at the imposing gates. Once parked you still have to use your compass to find the way to the restaurant, where there is a warm glow of modern wood décor when you enter the eating area. The young staff are very welcoming, and will show you to your table quite quickly.
We went with a group of friends, which meant a large round table for nine. Tables were set with crisp white linen, with modern silverware; very welcoming. Water jugs were already on the table, extra point. We chose from the limited wine list, noting that the prices are on the high side; our Chilean Shiraz was £16:50 for example. When the wine was brought for tasting, I was rather surprised how warm it was – my enquiry elicited the response that it was stored in a hot (sic) place, I suspect the kitchen. Certainly not the ideal place. Next to arrive were the freshly baked bread rolls, with a selection to be made. Sadly the young waitress had not been adequately trained, and she passed the chosen role by hand to the diner, another minus point I’m afraid. Another negative mark was given for the constant reaching over the table for service items by the staff - a sensible positioning of the table would have avoided this.
There was a selection of dishes ordered, and I will cover most of these now. The best starter was the Crispy duck with Thai salad, this was passed around for general approval; it was given 5 points by all. Two other starters were given mixed receptions, a mushroom and goat’s cheese tart with rocket and truffle oil was found to be rather uninteresting - the lack of an astringent dressing was the biggest complaint, as it was with the crab and avocado with grapefruit and watercress. Three points out of five for the latter, and four for the former.
Main courses included a good quality fillet of beef, which I am inclined to give a full 5 points to, despite the lack of choice for cooking time. Sea bass on calamari with spring onions and new potatoes was reduced to 4 points because the dish was cold on arrival, and a little bland. Rack of lamb was also down-graded as it was rather fatty, and again no choice offered about cooking time – it had to be sent back for further cooking, as it was not cooked through.
We were disappointed by the puddings: the raspberry and Baileys crème brulée was deemed rather heavy and was given 3 points, white chocolate cheesecake with strawberries was even worse, given only 2 points for the lack of cooked cheese. A vacherin served with fresh fruit and a mango and passion fruit coulis was a great disappointment – it is a “signature dish”, it was only given 2 points because it was found to be very gluey within the meringue, certainly not crisp.
Overall we felt slightly disappointed with the lack of value for a high priced meal, in an establishment that prides itself on a quality image. It is possible to eat here les expensively on a Sunday (2 courses £10:95, 3 courses £24:95),
The management needs to have tighter control, I’m afraid.
Revue date: October 2007

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Darcy’s
LOCATION: 2 Hatfield Road, St Albans
TELEPHONE: 01727 730777
PARKING/ ACCESS: On street (after 6pm) or public car parks/ flat walking
CUISINE: Modern European with surprises!
COVERS: 116
SMOKING: No
FOOD:
  ****
AMBIANCE:
  ****
SERVICE:
  ****
VALUE:
  ****

Kate D’Arcy met chef Ruth Hurren in Australia with an idea to set up business together, now Kate Newling-Ward, she vies with the well known St Michael’s Manor for fine dining - now run by her husband. In two short years Darcys has carved out an excellent reputation for good food in an area with many eating places. Located just off St Peter’s Street, Darcys is well located, but inevitably being town centre, there is no restaurant parking.
We visited on a Tuesday and found the dining rooms buzzing (with a selection of rooms it is possible to create the correct ambiance with a variable number of clients). We were greeted amiably by the young staff and guided straight to our table. The décor was modern but not hard edged; tables were polished and crisp linen napkins provided. The menu has a mixed Italian and Australian sound to it: really very interesting. The wine menu has a selection to suit all comers with a selection of Old and New World but is on the pricey side.
Our two starters were from the “specials of the day” list: A melt in your mouth beef carpaccio with some very salty bruschettas; and a terrine of smoked chicken, spinach, avocado and sun dried tomato: absolutely delicious.
Three Valleys Water came on request by the glass, and the house wine was a good value French non vintage: a smooth, medium weight red wine, extremely drinkable.
Our main courses were from the main menu: “lamb rump with shallots and rosemary jus on celeriac puree”. Faultless was the only comment passed, nothing need be added by me. My main dish was an antipodean speciality: kangaroo on roasted sweet potato with Mediterranean tomato and mustard jus. The only other time I had ‘roux it was overcooked and rather tough. On this occasion it was pink and tender and rather like a fine steak. Taste … quite delicate, but unique: try it!
Puddings are often a weak part of a menu; but on this occasion were good; the banoffee cheesecake was just right: cool but not cold, sweet, not cloying - really enjoyable.  My partner opted for the selection of Italian cheeses which ranged from a soft goats [asogo d’Alilavo], through a mild Robiola to a flavoursome Gorgonzola piccante. I must admit to helping out with this wonderful selection: again full marks.  A wonderful way to end the meal with a first class double espresso.
Overall an extremely satisfying visit: highly recommended. Remember you should book, at week-ends it is essential.
Review  Date:1-05

Deco
LOCATION: 16-20 Parliament Square, Hertford, SG14 1EZ
TELEPHONE: 01992 512610
PARKING/ ACCESS: Use public car parks
CUISINE: Modern English
COVERS: 50
FOOD:    ****    :  above average
AMBIANCE:   ***     :  brasserie style, a bit stark
SERVICE:  ***     :  willing, but poorly trained.
VALUE:  ***     :  average
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £50

A newcomer to the Hertford eatery scene, occupying a previous nightclub venue, the six partners with have to work hard in the current economic climate to survive. I wish them well, but they may be a struggling for a while. I did note that four of them were in a huddle while we were there. Was the chef the only one “hands on”?
We went for a mid week lunch, and we were the only paying customers there; there were some obvious friends of the previously mentioned huddle having a coffee.
The appearance was modern and clean, black glass and chrome, on the tables were linen napkins and some cutlery – which had to be topped up as the meal progressed. We requested tap water when we ordered our wine selection – this had to be chased twice. The wine order was not satisfactory, as we ordered the house in different glass sizes. When they arrived their volume was obviously the same. Our waitress did her best to convince us that she had ordered correctly) no doubt she did), but we had to get a virtual spirit level to convince the kitchen that they had made an error. The change was made with obvious bad grace. Not good. Ignored by the partners too.
The starters were all given 4 points; these were a homemade chicken soup and a roasted squash and duck salad with a mint, coriander and hazel nut dressing. The freshly baked bread arrived late.
The mains were well prepared and for an economical meal we had a butternut squash quiche and an Angus burger with French fries. The expected condiments had to be requested.
We decided not have a third course, I suspect mostly bought in.
If we are objective, we will say that chef Anthony Fletcher does his job well, but that he is let down by the restaurant management. Let us hope it is rectified rapidly.
Revue date: April 2009


Down Hall
LOCATION: Hatfield Heath, Bishops Stortford, CM22 7AS
TELEPHONE: 01279 731441
PARKING/ ACCESS: large flat area
CUISINE: modern European
COVERS:  50
FOOD:    ****    :  well prepared
AMBIANCE:   ****    :  modern
SERVICE:  **       :  not that satisfactory at the table
VALUE:  ****    :  variable
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons):  £49

Set down a narrow lane, the view on arriving is very imposing: the kind of frontage that makes Americans realise how short their history is! The site has been a home since the 12th Century; it has been built up over the intervening years to what is now a fine building, which includes hotel accommodation. The staff is obviously proud of the heritage, but the owner is rarely seen. The establishment is run by a collection of dedicated managers.
Entry is in through the main hotel entrance – best described as imposing. There are two dining areas: the restaurant (Ibbotson’s), and the Grill Room, this latter is used during the day, and hence for lunch, which is when we went. Large and airy, with plenty of natural light, thee room is laid out with plain tables dressed with linen napkins and silverware.
Lunch can be a good deal, when we went three courses were £17:95, two £12:95 but beware the higher regular prices. Starters about £10, mains £20 +, and desserts £10:50 – price structure that will cause raised eyebrows I think. The dishes can mostly fall in to description of mostly surf or limited turf, but there is a good selection available. There is also an automatic service charge. Wines are not sensibly priced either, a house Pinot sets you back £25, and the French rosé £24, which is what we chose on what was a sunny day. It did come at near freezing! When questioned, the server explained that the Americans liked it like that! We were given a sympathetic look when I said that we did not!
Three courses were in order today so we chose the starters from a limited selection. Asparagus soup with “truffle cream” was awarded 4 points, although the truffles were probably waved over the top of the cream. Pâté was found to be nicely coarse and given 4 points. The main of Caesar’s salad was rather over endowed with anchovies, but was still acceptable – 4 points. However the waiting staff did not keep an eye on the cutlery used for the first course, and additional items has to be asked for.
Desserts were all given four points, these being a lemon tart and a chocolate torte with a raspberry coulis; I would like to think they were made on the premises. The cheese board was a disappointment, only just an average 3 points.
Overall the senior staff were very pleasant and knew their job, but the junior staff did not; and that is not excusable in such a grand establishment.

Revue date: November  2008

East, The
LOCATION: Great North Road, Welwyn Garden City, AL8 7TB
TELEPHONE: 01707 266288
PARKING/ ACCESS: large on site car park
CUISINE: Eastern fusion
COVERS:  150
FOOD:    ****    :  above average
AMBIANCE:   ****    :  pub-like
SERVICE:  ****    :  above average
VALUE:  ****    :  good value if you select carefully
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £60

This one time public house has been converted very satisfactorily in to a restaurant that is very popular with the Welwyn Garden City diners; it may be something to do with being an oasis in a dining desert!
We visited with friends on a Saturday, and it was heaving with diners. I found it slightly disconcerting walking in to a very “English” pub to be met by an Asian ambiance, and I feel slightly embarrassed to say so!
The very efficient staff were exceptionally welcoming, and dealt with us efficiently, albeit with rather long delays between courses - forgivable with the numbers being served. The menu included a variety of dishes from all over Asia – Japan, China, Thailand, etc.
Choosing our dishes was not easy – our friends normally chose the “set menu A”, as this appeared to be very good value at £17, but we decided instead – as frequently happens – each to order their favourites, and then share.
The menu is very clear and we opted for selections from the starters: Mixed platter for 4, spare ribs, prawn toast, crispy seaweed (sic) and spring rolls.
For seconds, crispy duck and pancakes. Mains: sizzling filet (claimed) of beef, ordinary sizzling beef, sweet and sour pork, and chicken with ginger and spring onions. We all finished with ice creams.
Drink prices were reasonable, for example a glass of Sauvignon was £3:70.
As you can see we had a very large meal for a reasonable price. Recommended.


Revue date: April 2009


Fanhams Hall
LOCATION: Fanhams Hall Road, Ware, SG12 7PZ
TELEPHONE: 01920 460511
PARKING/ ACCESS: On site parking, short walk
CUISINE: traditional British
COVERS: 100
SMOKING: allowed at bar.
FOOD:   ****
Comment: limited choices, well prepared
AMBIANCE:   ***
Comment: large modern, airy dining area, the views are very attractive
SERVICE:  **
Comment: Willing but poorly supported
VALUE: ****

Having seen all the press releases about this grand mansion we decided to pay a call for a mid week, evening meal; this may have been a mistake: that is for you the reader to judge. Fanhams is a fine Jacobean building in magnificent grounds; the gardeners have performed wonders on what is a very large estate.  Well worthy of a pre prandial stroll are the Japanese gardens, but there is much more than that to see.
There have been a string of prestigious owners even in the time we have lived in the area: Nat-West Bank, Building Societies Association, and Sainsbury’s.  It has now been purchased for conversion to a hotel by the Aquarius Group. Earlier residents were members of the Brocket family. It is a very fine and interesting building, well suited to conversion to a five star venue.
We arrived without booking, and it was obvious that there are not too many speculative diners expected; we were the only independent diners. There were two separate parties of about ten eating at the same time. Meeting and greeting did not happen in the restaurant! We were shown to the bar while a menu was obtained; we were then left to read this several times over.  After a period of time we went in search of the dining room, and then shown to a table.  Unfortunately we asked too many questions of the waiting staff, and our very pleasant young waiter had to keep trotting off to get answers; such as how spicy is the starter? What is the house wine, etc?
We did examine the wine list and found a very limited choice, and a bit over priced (Chilean Merlot at £15:50). There is no house wine – it depends what is open! The jug of water on the table had warmed up during the hot evening and so we requested a refill (it arrived with no ice or lemon and luke warm).
The chef however prepared the dishes to a good standard; our choices are as follows. The cream of mushroom soup was passable, with sliced mushrooms being discernable; spicy chicken samosa with a chilli dip and salad was very enjoyable and mild (the chicken was accompanied by a selection of pulses in its little house). As for the mains: salmon fillet with coconut and coriander sauce was delicious and given 4½. Pork tenderloin marinated with a honey and white wine vinegar, was nicely piquant and very enjoyable; given 4 points. The vegetable “medley” however was disappointing, being over cooked and lacking in colour.
That was the end of the service element of our meal, deserts were self selected from a chilled counter and whilst adequate were not special; only 2 points.
When we enquired about prices at week-end and evening, it became apparent that prices are being pitched low to encourage new customers: three course lunch is £12:00; dinner £14:95, and the week-end carvery is the same. A 10% discount is offered to seniors. Friday and Saturday evenings have an a la carte menu, with mains around £13:00, starters and pudding around £6:00.
We did enjoy our visit, but feel we should return in 12 months to see if the General Manger, Andrew Miles, has got his act together. We both felt it was a mistake to aim low; the venue is a classy setting and has a quality feel. Dining should reflect this. Cutting corners is not working, and does not encourage the high spending client that this establishment should encourage.
Worth a visit for an economical meal in fabulous surroundings.
Review  Date:11-05

Five arrows, The
LOCATION: Waddesdon, Bucks.
TELEPHONE: 01296 651727
PARKING/ ACCESS: own
CUISINE: Gastro Pub
COVERS: 40
SMOKING: no
FOOD:    ****   :  As good as it gets
AMBIANCE:   ****   : Cosy pub, with a distinction  
SERVICE:  ****   :  good
VALUE:  ****   :  good value
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £70:90
This is Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild’s own local! No not really, it’s more of a facility provided by him for the locals. However the ambiance of the Five Arrows cannot be faulted, it after all on the edge of Waddesdon Manor: arguably the finest property, outside royalty, you will ever see. Calling cold is a risk, but with an American relative in tow, it was a risk worth taking. The meeting and greeting was a bit of a mess, with language problems. The young man had obviously been told that we all have alcoholic drinks while we choose our dishes! Not so! On two counts: I was driving; and, we do not like to pushed into bar drinks that have to be finished before your order arrives. Anyway the persistence of the young man was firmly refuted several times, and he looked quite puzzled!
On Sundays they do not serve an evening meal – quite a common problem when eating out. But, lunch is served until 7:00 (approx)! So, we had a very late lunch; and very good it was too; being selected from a list of “daily specials” The starters were overpriced in comparison with the mains; a sweet potato soup was £6, but of good quality. Also Beef cured in Rothschild Red Wine (what else?) at £7 was really enjoyed despite the price! Mains were good value at around £16 each. Our choices were an all in free range chicken breast, with prunes, herbs, mashed, vegetables and a red wine jus (what else!); and the nicest rib eye steak I have tasted for a long time with fries and salad. The wine list is rather restricted: just wines from the Rothschild vineries around the world!!!
We opted for a very good Cote  du Rhone at £21. puddings were all at £5:50: home made sticky toffee pudding with ice cream and crème brulée with cherries: scrumptious. Finishing up with Rothschild port at £4:25 to impress the American!
Do visit when next in the area, it is as daunting as it appears on the outside, it is just a pub with a touch of class.
Revue date: 8/06

Formovivo
LOCATION: 69 High Street, Tring, HP23 4AB
TELEPHONE: 01442 826559
PARKING/ ACCESS: use public parking
CUISINE: Italian
COVERS: 100
SMOKING: no
FOOD:    ****   :  well presented and prepared
AMBIANCE:   ***    :  Large and modern
SERVICE:  ***    :  Very slick
VALUE:  ***    :  reasonable
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £48

Not a place one drives through nowadays – everyone rattles along the A41. but we felt there must be somewhere for the locals to eat out. Having been rebuffed by the local hotel, we wandered along the High Street, until we got to the old Post Office: which appeared to have a party in full swing! Despite it’s rather dull exterior, it was here we found a very efficiently run Italian restaurant. Quite large and very bustling, rather noisy, and packed with baby boomers! Very friendly greeting and placement to our table. Vast selection of Italian food, prepared by local Italian nationals. Cannot fault the food or service: it was good to see the staff obviously getting on with each other and helping out when necessary. It is probably necessary to book in the evenings, but we were lucky … and enjoyed our pasta dishes and Italian sweets.   Not necessarily a place to drive to for a special event, there are many efficient similar restaurants around. But if close by, a goods place to have a pleasing Italian meal.
Revue date: 8/06

Fox, The
LOCATION: Aspenden, SG9 9PD
TELEPHONE: 01763 271886
PARKING/ ACCESS: Own car park
CUISINE: Trad.. English
COVERS: 24-36
SMOKING: allowed in bar
FOOD:    ****    :  well prepared
AMBIANCE:   ***     :  traditional
SERVICE:  ***     :  personal
VALUE:  ****   :  good value
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £51

A gem, tucked away from passing trade, The Fox has to make itself memorable. Justin and Judi Scarborough-Taylor, are well known locals, being associated with good eateries for a very long time (e.g. The Cabinet at Reed). This is a Green King pub in a small village on a no through road, with a small number of friendly locals. A very good starting (and finishing) point for walks around the countryside, this is your typical Hertfordshire country pub. Spotlessly clean, scrubbed floors and tables, and fresh curtains at the windows. No pretensions - every thing cooked upon demand. by Justin, the produce sourced by Judi locally wherever possible: the meat from Pickets of Ware for example.
We had an economy lunch consisting of fillet steak and Greek salad, both presented to perfection. The other main was chicken again sourced locally, and it showed in the well rounded flavour. Puddings: an apple crumble, and freshly picked strawberries; were both given a full 5 points as were the main courses.  It has been suggested that, quite reasonably, with such a personal service, there the occasional “off” days – we have no evidence of that, and we recommend a visit; it’s a worthwhile turn off the main road..
Revue date: 8/06


Fox and Hounds Public House
LOCATION: 2 High Street Hunsdon
TELEPHONE: 01279 843999
PARKING: Own car park
CUISINE: Modern English
COVERS: 50
SMOKING: allowed in bar area
FOOD:  ***
Comment: Chef is trying hard.
AMBIANCE:  **
Comment: Basic pub style, no real dining ambiance
SERVICE:  ***
Comment: Must try harder to woo critical diners
VALUE: ***

Trying to break with a past history is always difficult; in this instance the Fox and Hounds has a long and chequered history. Basically it has got caught in a time warp, where the locals don’t want change, but potential new customers do. The new team has been in place since October 2004, and are doing OK, but they will need to sharpen up if they want to become a first choice venue. Chef James has some good innovative ideas; he is technically competent and needs first class management in the dining room: it is a trifle casual at this moment. However let me tell you about the meal we had recently.
Because they were not that busy, we were placed in the dining area of the bar – not the dining room (one has to wonder why). This area is very basic with plain wood tables and chairs, the cutlery was brought to us course by course, along with paper napkins. Water was never offered (even bottled) and never appeared, despite being a very hot evening. The menu was brought, and it appears to be a daily production; however after we made our choices, the staff pointed out a blackboard with a “prix fixée” suggestion.
Bread was brought at this stage – an excellent home made Foccacia it was. The staff explained that freshly baked bread was always available to purchase, and also, special orders were welcomed. We now requested the wine list, this had a reasonable selection, but a trifle over priced. We plumped for the house wine - a Languedoc, which was very drinkable.
Starters were a mixed bunch: my “anti pasto misto” was first class with olives, artichokes, plum tomatoes, rocket and a garlic confit: I gave a full 5 for this plateful. However the asparagus, butter almonds and parsley, was not to be as delicately cooked as it should be, hence 3½; like-wise the smoked salmon, sour cream and cucumber pickles was just “ordinary”.
Mains received higher points: the new season’s lamb rump with mash, mousserons (little mushrooms apparently), onions and pancetta was given a full 5. The corn fed chicken with sauté potatoes and rocket, was enjoyed and given 4; as was the Aberdeen Angus with béarnaise sauce and chips. Not a full five I’m afraid as the Rump(?) steak was really well flavoured but a trifle chewy, and the sauce was actually running all over the plate! i.e. not very reduced.
As ever the desserts were a let down; only 3 points to any of the three selected. The Italian chocolate brownie (i.e. a dense chocolate cake) with fudge sauce and espresso ice cream was enjoyed, but was deemed to be a sop to comfort food addicts. The raspberry and almond tart with ice cream, was not very eatable being extremely dry, only the ice cream was palatable. Finally the selection of British and French cheeses, was brought without any explanation of varieties provided (i.e. no choices), and no butter, and some oat biscuits.
Overall we enjoyed our dinner, and were impressed by the staff's enthusiasm and the chef’s innovative starters and main courses and would recommend a visit. Don’t forget if you are passing near, to pop in for some bread. Open: from 12 noon in the afternoons Tuesday to Sunday; evenings: Tuesday to Saturday. Closed Mondays.
Review  Date:9-05

Franco’s
LOCATION: Roydon Station, 185 High Street, Roydon, Essex, CM19 5EA
TELEPHONE: 01279 792111
PARKING/ ACCESS: own parking, also station parking!
CUISINE: Italian
COVERS: 60
FOOD:    *****   :  excellent Italian
AMBIANCE:   ****   :  reminiscent of Agatha Christie!
SERVICE:  ****   :  very good
VALUE:  ****   :  you get what you pay for
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons):  £62

Franco Scalise runs a highly efficient restaurant. He has an excellent history at this very original site: the old waiting room at Roydon station. The rattle of the trains passing by, and viewed through partly obscured windows is very atmospheric! Bringing images of Agatha Christies murder novels to mind!
Very professional, Franco is one of those enviable individuals who can recall all his clients to mind – and their names, even after just one visit. I was really impressed when I was greeted by name on this anonymous visit. [To be fair he did not know that this review was going to be written]. A full range of dishes are available, all freshly prepared in full view of the client, at the time of ordering.  It is very difficult to find any faults with this establishment, Franco states his principles very simply: top prices for high quality, locally sourced produce.
Starter one was Parma ham with Mozzarella cheese, a dish that was given full marks, as was the Three colour salad (cheese, tomato and basil). Both dishes were well designed to prepare us for the excellent main dishes. House wine was an imported very drinkable Italian Sangiovese, and fresh water came automatically.
The two mains we had were veal escallops with cream and mushrooms – a really good helping of a delicately prepared dish (five points). The other dish of venison medallions with a sultana and Madeira sauce, I can report as being really tender and tasty, and deserved its 5 points.
After these excellent dishes we felt we really ought to assess the puddings, so often a disappointment. The Italian cheesecake was given a full five, because , as my partner pointed out, it was really made with cheese (as it should, but so often isn’t). I gave the profiteroles only four points, because although excellent, I would have preferred a really dark chocolate sauce – how picky can one get!
All in all, a really enjoyable evening out; recommended, but remember to phone at popular times as it gets very busy.


Revue date: 2006, September



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Galley Hall, The
LOCATION: Hailey Lane, Hertford Heath
TELEPHONE: 
PARKING/ ACCESS: on site, step entrance
CUISINE: Pub
COVERS: 20
SMOKING: No
FOOD:   x
Comment: poor quality
AMBIANCE:   xx
Comment: basic pub style
SERVICE:  xx
Comment: no style or supervision
VALUE: xxx

 
This Pub is well placed for passing trade, but does nothing to encourage you back. Lunch specials are served on Mondays and Thursdays. At £4:95 for steak and chips, normally twice that, one would expect a “WOW!” for good value, but I’m afraid you get what you pay for: poor quality meat, indifferently served. Not recommended; although we have heard that the Monday fish special is good and eatable.
Review  Date:3-06

George, The
LOCATION: The Green, Cavendish, Suffolk
TELEPHONE: 01787 280248 
PARKING/ ACCESS: on street
CUISINE: modern English
COVERS: 30
SMOKING: no
FOOD:    *****   :  quite exceptional
AMBIANCE:   ****    :  modernised traditional
SERVICE:  ***     :  efficient, personal
VALUE:  ****    :  fair
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £52

Well there we were, lost in Suffolk, mid-week, and night coming on! Despite its size Cavendish supports a number of restaurants; we tried one in “The Good Pub Guide” and were put off by the very strong smell of smoke as we walked in; also it was a bit grubby. A stroll down to the very pretty village green brought us to The George – which had a very welcoming, brightly lit interior. A quick enquiry, and we knew this was a place to eat. New ownership and a complete overall has created a gastro-pub, not a place for a quick pint any more! The new licensee was very attentive and service was impeccable, if a little slow.  Our meal starters of asparagus (£6:50) and bresaola (£5:95), which the chef personally prepared – delicious. Mains, and you will see why this no longer a pub, were venison and seared swordfish, there was also further dishes like crab available: a very pleasant surprise. Our two dishes were done to perfection, and the accompanying New Zealand Nobilo was very fine, if pricey. We were satisfied and so finished with coffee.
Well worth a detour – intentional or not – a little gem.
Revue date: 8/06

George & Dragon, The
LOCATION: Watton-at-Stone ,SG14 3TA
TELEPHONE: 01920 830285
PARKING/ ACCESS: own
CUISINE: modern English
COVERS: 42
SMOKING:
FOOD:    ****   :  high quality
AMBIANCE:   ****   :  best traditional
SERVICE:  ****   :  very good
VALUE:  ****   :  good value
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £53:00

It is not easy maintaining a top image for long periods of time. The “George” has achieved this over an extremely long period of time: the original owner having gone into retirement, at least four years ago. Very popular this pub has been setting standards foe consistency that many would wish to emulate. We booked for a mid week lunch, and were not disappointed. A larger than average wine list provides an ample selection, at the usual level of mark up: our claret at £17:95. This arrived promptly with our jug of Trois Vallée A good selection of dishes makes it possible for all but the most fastidious to eat here with pleasure. This includes those with coeliac disease, as a gluten free range of dishes is always available. How enterprising. Our selections are noted: Asparagus soup was served warm, with fresh bread – it was declared “good”. My trout paté was ok., but I do like my salad to arrive dressed. My main of beef medallions, I gave a very 4½  points, the piquant citrus sauce was excellent. Even better was the corn fed chicken with leeks – no mean feat with poultry in this day and age..  Another diner had the sausages of pork and leek with a bacon and mushroom mash; he could hardly find superlatives good enough to fit! I had the feeling that the herbs come out of the pub garden, they were so fresh. Vegetables were in small portions, and were freshly cooked cauliflower, beans, and carrots.
I the interests of research you will know that I frequently push myself to a pudding; on this occasion it was a meringue of raspberries and strawberries with cream. Heavenly! (4 out of 5, for tempting me!)
This is another superbly run pub, and proprietors Peter and Jessica Tatlow provides almost all that one would wish for. Recommended.
Revue date: 8/06


Goose Fat & Garlic
LOCATION: 52 Bell Street, Sawbridgeworth
TELEPHONE: 01279 722554
PARKING/ ACCESS: public car park
CUISINE: International
COVERS: 45
SMOKING: permitted in bar
FOOD:   ***
Comment: spoiled by a bad beginning and end.
AMBIANCE:   **
Comment: quite basic, but with white linen
SERVICE:  **
Comment: lacking in polish
VALUE: **

 
We ate here mid week in the evening; having parked in the public car park just before the restaurant. We entered the very smoky bar and were totally ignored; so we wandered into the dining room, and realised there was a separate entrance at this location. The very young staff were very attentive and did their best, but there was no obvious experienced supervision. The training they had received had obviously made an impression, but it was lacking in polish. We selected from the a la carte, but there is a mid day prix fixée available. Despite the long history of eating at this address, we were disappointed: the main dishes were good, but the starters and puddings were not.
Of the starters, only the deep fried shrimp achieved 4 points, the paté and grilled brie were only given 3 points out of five. On the other hand the beef medallions and duck were cooked to perfection – just as ordered. We lingered appreciatively over this course. The puddings were the greatest disappointment: the crème brulée was just ordinary, the pancakes were tough and probably reheated; and the crêpe Suzette was brought to the table, again not really freshly prepared and with a very synthetic sauce (out of a packet?).
Yet another establishment that is living of its history, and will need to pull its socks up, for the discerning diner.
Review  Date:2-06

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Hanbury Manor  The Zodiac
LOCATION: Cambridge Road, Ware, Herts. SG12 0SP
TELEPHONE: 01920 487722
PARKING/ ACCESS: own large car park – a short walk. Also valet parking.
CUISINE: Modern European
COVERS: 60
FOOD:    ****    :  reasonable, but not outstanding
AMBIANCE:   *****   :  impossible to fault
SERVICE:  ****     :  very attentive, but not 5 star
VALUE:  *****   : the lunch represents good value; dinner will depend upon the circumstances
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £ 88:00

Reduced price for lunches was the offer that got us to this well established venue. Slightly puzzled because we all thought the established reputation would keep a steady flow of customers coming through the door. Apparently not, because Yannick de Muynch the restaurant manager explained that although evenings were very busy, lunches needed to be encouraged, hence the deal.
Fixed price selections are available at £20 for two courses and £25 for three. The choices were limited to about 3 or 4 dishes per section, but most diners would find a dish to suit their needs.
The five star venue is a really fine location with extensive grounds (including a golf course), and a really fine Jacobean building that was once known as Poles Convent. Visitors can not fail to bowled over by the exceptionally fine ambiance of the building – sweeping staircases, finely panelled wood walls, etc. The lounge area, just outside the dining room is nothing short of opulent; spoiled in my opinion, by a rather overpowering background of high class piano “muzac”, played I suspect on an automatic electronic piano, tucked away  out of sight. On other occasions, we have been lucky enough to have a live musician, which on one instance was a harpist – delightful. Staffing could be described as plentiful, fussy and inexperienced: we were given the incorrect menu, and had to chase our preliminary drinks, and when we were about to pass out with hunger, shown to our table. The Zodiac looks out onto the lovely grounds, and on a fine day is lovely.
We made our selections before entering the dining area, and so the first course arrived quite promptly, but we did have to request both a jug of Eau de Trois Vallée and bread. Despite the five star venue, the restaurant has only managed to obtained two rosettes. But, 5 star prices are charged, so it essential to careful when adding on extras. A spritzer for example cost £7:50 and a double espresso £4:50. The dished were very nicely presented, and pleasing to the eye. Portions, it has to be said were on the small size, but as we intent on assessing quality, this did not affect our subjective judgements.
The dining room under the watchful eye of manager Yannick de Muynh, was a delight to behold: acres of crisp white linen, and sparkling silver-ware; and a lot of attentive service staff, it was assumed that we liked to have our serviettes put upon our laps. A trifle ostentatiously I must say. Lunch time is a good time to eat here, for the evening dinners are popular and can be considered pricey: a £75  meal is promoted quite heavily. Lunches, including Sunday, are different: two courses for£20, and three for £25, with a regularly changing selection. This is what we went for!
Parma ham and melon with a spicy sauce was given 4 points, but another starter of salmon, dill and watercress was found to too salty and down-marked to 3.5  the water arrived, as mentioned above along with our individual glasses of Merlot and Riesling; these were found to be of good quality. Main courses were quail and sea bream. The quail came with French beans and potatoes, again I’m sorry to report that the chef had been too heavy handed with the salt, and the quail was rather a chewy meat, only 3 points. The sea bream itself was excellent and deserved full marks, but the accompanying bed of vegetables, pak choi and courgettes was pronounced Ok, but the rice which came was unduly sticky, so, only 4 points out of five. Only one sweet was tried, the crème brûlée, which was given a full 5 points, top of the class for this. Coffee was an add ional item, and was good quality.
Overall a very pleasant lunch time experience, in a wonderful venue, the majority of diners at the Zodiac appeared to be on expense accounts [and arrived and departed by helicopter], and so would not really go for our economy meal. For a special event or occasi0n, there is nothing to touch this venue for all the facilities, but for those on a tight budget, it might be necessary to be cautious in the ordering. The new owner might be forgiven if he has lot of new staff, and they come up to 5 star standard quickly.
Revue date: November 2007
RHD comments: one of the worst dinning experiences I have ever had. Poor food, Very little of it, and exceptionally pricey and poor value for money

A return under a promotional lunch scheme showed a great improvement in the food preparation. All courses were given a full points, with the exception of “air dried beef”, which came with a tiny undressed green salad which reduced the points to 4. The courses which gave delight were the garlic soup starter; which J waxed poetic about, and main courses of duck breast with pomme fondant and wild mushroom and green bean ragout: perfectly cooked. A sweet of mango crème brûlée with crème fraiche ice cream, was awarded 4 points for originality.
Revised July 2008



Hertford House Hotel
LOCATION: 1 Fore Street, Hertford, SG14 1DA
TELEPHONE: 01992 517440
PARKING/ ACCESS: use public car parks
CUISINE: English
COVERS: 55
FOOD:    *****    :  beautifully prepared and presented
AMBIANCE:   ***     :  cannot make up its mind
SERVICE:  ****    :  good
VALUE:  ***     :  on the expensive side
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): Lunch menu: £43:00

This was our third attempt to eat here. The previous two were marred by the over zealous opening before teething problems had been sorted out. Julian Ward and Matthias Heymann appear to have got everything under their control and to be fair Hertford can support another quality eatery. Walking in off the street, I was immediately aware that the dining tables were either close to the door, windows or the bar: one has to choose quickly. The bar was empty so this was our choice, close to the door would be draughty close to windows, would involve shaking hands with the passers by if they were friendly; there was also a constant flow of road traffic perhaps 3 metres away. The décor was bright and modern with wood tables complete with cutlery and linen serviettes. The room was dominated by the long bar. To my disappointment, there was “muzac” in the background; also condiments open to the atmosphere, insects and grubby fingers, although a salt spoon was available...
The wine list was limited and expensive, e.g. a New Zealand Pinot Noir was £25:50; we opted for glasses of Côtes de Provence at £4:95, also our jug of eau de Trois Vallée. Bread and butter were brought to the table – too bad if you were off herbs that day, they were both heavily herbed. The special lunch menu was biased towards fish, but there was a choice to be made. Our starter was a goats cheese croton (Sic.) and very good it was, complete with a lightly dressed green salad. It was at this point we realised that chef Julian took a lot of pride in the appearance of his dishes. J. commented throughout our meal on the carefully thought out presentation: each dish having its own style of platter. Really a very commendable effort.
Main courses were fish and chips, and chicken and leek pie. The dishes were again beautifully presented, with the side dishes part of the display. J. declared the puff pastry for the pie delicious, and the side green vegetables “just right”, hence a full 5 points. My fish and chips would not suite a hungry Yorkshireman, because the cod had had been cut into goujons before being battered and fried, and the chips were a hand crafted cup full; also as I did not fancy mushy peas they came with some beautifully dressed tomatoes. A full 5 points from me.
To finish I spoilt myself with Julian’s apple pie with vanilla custard, very good: 4+ points, J had the coffee, and declared it very good, and to be recommended.
A further return visit in the evening (a Saturday, as it happens), did nothing to change our overall views. Suffice to say, that the number of covers was small, and the got busier and busier as the evening progressed: making the ambiance less and less like a restaurant. A chat with Julian indicated that 2008 would bring a new dining room and function room. We really do hope the promise is fulfilled…
Overall an enjoyable eating experience, I would return, but the management needs to sort out its ambiance soon; I feel some diners would not be very happy dining in a large bar, with traffic and pedestrians literally within reach. Julian deserves better.

Revue date: January 2008

Hillside, The
LOCATION: 45 Port Hill, Hertford, SG14 3EP
TELEPHONE: 01992 554556
PARKING/ ACCESS: own small car park
CUISINE: modern European
COVERS: 20
FOOD:    *****   : very high standard
AMBIANCE:   ***     :  rather basic
SERVICE:  ****    :  above average
VALUE:  ***     :  high priced high quality food
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £74

Aimed firmly at the ascending classes, the Hillside, a converted pub (The Reindeer) is now one of those gastro pubs that charges restaurant prices in a basic environment.  Opened by Barry Hilton in 2003, this enterprise has been very successful, spawning the “Spice Inns” group, which now boasts six outlets, based in a semi circle around Hertford. Barry is now based at the Cricketers arms, in Rickling Green; and I do wonder if he over-stretched. Two couples ate here recently in the evening, and we found the dishes provided by chef Justin Sharp of a very high standard, but charged at London prices! Starters cost about £8 and main dishes, an average of £16, but with side vegetables at £3.
The house wine was a very acceptable vin du pays at £13:95; water in a jug was provided, and also a single slice of fresh bread. (As an aside we had been told by a friend that he had been charged when asking for extra bread! He will never return).
Starters were all given a full 5 points; these were a non PC foie gras with grilled fig: wonderful stuff… grilled sardines wrapped in bacon with various accompaniments, again deemed delicious; and finally a terrine of ham and chicken with a wonderful dressing, superb.
Main courses did not disappoint either. Veal sirloin which was grilled with garlic creamed cabbage, roast shallots and pancetta was extremely tender and full of flavour. Slow cooked pork belly with apple, parsley, leeks and champ potatoes was deemed perfect; and an off menu choice of swordfish was again deemed first class. Altogether a very good, well prepared and presented set of main dishes.
The sweets, all around £5, finished off the meal satisfactorily. For the record these were poached fruit, pannacotta, tart Tatin and ice cream; all gi8ven 4 points.  The final bill had an automatic service charged to it – I wonder if the staff see it?

Revue date: October 2007
“Is The Hillside a Gastro pub or a restaurant? The menu was fit for a restaurant, but bare tables and functional chairs were more Gastro pub fashion. Should an eatery offer a pretentious menu that needed help from the waitress to four reasonably clued up gastronomes (!) and still fall in the pub bracket?” JK

St James’ Restaurant at The Hertfordshire 
LOCATION: Hertfordshire Golf and Country Club, White Stubbs Lane, Broxbourne
TELEPHONE: 01992 466666
PARKING/ ACCESS: Large car park; single step at door
CUISINE: Modern European
COVERS: 50
NO SMOKING:  permitted in bar.
FOOD:  ***
Generous portions; well prepared. Middle of the road selection.
AMBIANCE:  ***
Grand building with lots of paneling; pleasant views to golf course.
 SERVICE ****
Table service could not be faulted (semi-plated).
VALUE:         ***

Broxbournebury Mansion is not a name that springs to mind for a lunch out, but The Hertfordshire Golf Club does – they are one and the same thing. Coincidentally we are following a trail laid by the Knights Templar; this was once in their possession. (Too far to Hertford for a direct tunnel!) The dining and function rooms are in a fine Elizabethan mansion house style: approached through the beautifully laid out golf course.
The St James’ has only been open for 6 months, and the recently appointed Food and Beverage manager Philippe is very enthusiastic. The fixed price menu appears to serve both lunch and dinner. Budgeting is easy as one can select one, two or three courses for a fixed price (£11:95, £15:95, £19:95). Always worthy of an extra star: crisp white linen table cloths and napkins and modern sparkling silverware. The young waiting staff were very professional and were knowledgeable about the menu, which had a selection of five items per course. The only negative element (and you may accuse me of being pedantic) is the open salt and pepper- to be taken with fingers and sprinkled!
The house wine was a very pleasant Gamay style, representing good value. The wine list however was not too inviting, being very limited: Philippe assures me that when reprinted it will be much more extensive, and show the true range of their cellar. The jug of iced water appeared promptly. Our selection and comments follow.
Starters: warm brie and mango filo parcels with a red onion marmalade was given 5/5. Chicken liver with melba toast and cranberry parfait I gave 3/5, because the accompanying green salad was not dressed. Mains: pan fried fillet beef with balsamic roasted shallots and peppercorn sauce, was 4/5; the beef was excellent. I had honey and ginger glazed duck with red cabbage and parisienne potatoes (excellently prepared), with redcurrant and thyme jus, 4/5 because the generous helping of well cooked duck and tangy red cabbage was not given any help by the other ingredients.  Separate dishes of “al dente” vegetables, were in generous proportions. Sweets as ever were the telling point. The ordered French crepe with tiramisu ice cream was spoiled by a very chewy crepe (not freshly made?) 2/5; the cheese selection was unusual, but interesting: 4/5.
A pleasant experience enhanced by the enthusiasm of all the staff; can be busy in the evenings, should book in advance.
Review  Date:3-05


Host
LOCATION: 4 Market Square, Bishops Stortford
TELEPHONE: 01279 657000
PARKING/ ACCESS: Public Car parks, or on street. 3 steps at entrance.
CUISINE: Modern English
COVERS: 55
SMOKING:  permitted in bar area.
  ***
A good selection of artistically presented dishes
AMBIANCE:   ***
Smart and modern;
SERVICE:  ****
Young, friendly and professional
VALUE: ***

Tucked nearly out of site, in the centre of Bishops Stortford, but within walking distance of the town centre, Host [yes! It is singular], is a very modern eatery; chrome, glass and contemporary art on the walls. When we booked we were told to expect a no smoking restaurant; good I thought. But see my comment later on…
There is both a set menu and an a la carte menu – nothing outrageously pricey. Two courses at £12:50 or three at £15:00.  Wine list fairly normal with the usual level of prices. We ordered the house wine, and we were expecting something special from France (Cote de Rhone), but it was “ordinaire”.  This arrived at the same time as our jug of 3 Valleys’.  This latter was served, the wine was not!
Having placed our orders, we were quite delighted with the artistic presentation of all the dishes. It is obvious that the chef wishes to stimulate all the senses of his patrons. Our two chosen starters were both given 4½ out of 5: sweet chilli crispy chicken was exceptionally tasty without being too hot. The other starter was Salad Caprese, otherwise known as Mozzarella salad – really delicious with crisp rocket leaves and tomato dressed in basil.   We now came to main courses: first, chicken wrapped in bacon with a vegetable linguine. This dish was really enjoyable: moist, flavoursome; plus as mentioned, a delightful presentation; given 4 points. The other main however was a disappointment: Cod in a beer and chive batter, with French fries and tartar sauce. First, although the fish had been cooked adequately, the batter was a bit greasy; second, although the chips had a nice colour, they did nothing for the “entente cordiale”. They were only part cooked, not crisp, and decidedly limp geriatrics. Finally the chive flavour completely killed the tartar sauce. Not good, and when I was contemplating my indigestion at 3:00 am the next morning I gave it 2 points (mostly for a good try).  The Desserts were simple affairs and finished off the meal adequately: pannacotta and berry compote and mint chip ice cream were both given 3 points. Coffee appeared to be included in the set dinner and was very welcome.
I feel I have to mention the smoky atmosphere in the restaurant. The bar is integral with the eating area, and smoke drifted across to all diners. I feel the young owner needs to address this if he wants diners rather than drinkers.
Nevertheless we enjoyed our visit and could be persuaded to return if smoke free. Host is open 6 days a week, and Sunday lunchtime, being small it is best to book.
Review  Date:5-05

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Jacobys
LOCATION: 15 West Street, Ware
TELEPHONE: 01920 xx
PARKING/ ACCESS: Public parking available
CUISINE: European
COVERS: 50
SMOKING: permitted in bar: quite noticeable
FOOD:  ****
Comment: well prepared
AMBIANCE  *****
Comment: very attractive location
SERVICE:  ***
Comment: Efficient - spoiled by over familiarity
VALUE: ***

We have to Jacoby’s several times since it opened in 2002; the original high standards being slowly eroded, until it became a place to avoid. The new owner, Tony, has arrived in Ware following a trail from central London, via North London to his new venture. He was on hand to greet diners as they arrived, and was gushing in his welcome.  After we had eaten we did wonder if his family had shares in a balsamic vinegar company, as this appeared to be added to every dish ordered! There was no dress code for staff: jeans and casual shirt being the standard. However if the dress was sloppy, the young man serving us was not; he appeared to have a good knowledge of his chef’s menu. We ordered house wine, which was fine – but water had to chased up before it arrived.
There is a fixed price, 3 course menu available at £7:95 most lunch times; we however opted for two courses from the a la carte. A shared starter of ciabatta bread, roasted peppers, tapenade, olive oil and Balsamic vinegar was enjoyed greatly. We opted for a veal dish as this will frequently show up the quality of beef selected; and it did.  Whilst the dish was nicely prepared with sauté potatoes and balsamic vinegar; the meat itself was on the tough side, and described as “chewy”. A shame.  [Tony was quite put out when this was mentioned, as the bill was paid. Actually tried to argue a different case].
Recommended? Yes but with some reservations about tightening up the ship. The pervading smell of smoke from the bar needs to be addressed too.  Does provide a good value venue.
Review  Date:1-06

Jolly Fisherman
LOCATION: 8 Station Road, Stanstead Abbotts, SG12 8DH
TELEPHONE: 01920 870125
PARKING/ ACCESS: Own car park, flat access
CUISINE: Modern European
COVERS: 40
SMOKING: only permitted in bar area
FOOD:   ****
Comment: High quality.
AMBIANCE:   ***
Comment: recently refurbished, but retaining traditional feel
SERVICE:  ***
Comment: friendly committed staff
VALUE: ***

Located on a pleasant green sward by the River Lee, close to the Rail station, The Jolly Fisherman has been a regular watering hole for many years. We had been told of a refurbishment and a new chef – not quite true – and so went to investigate one lunch time. A full car park gave a good impression, and we entered what was the old bar area to find a bright dining area, quite separate from the smoky bar. The furnishings are probably from the original pub, even to the rickety tables! We were promptly shown to a table and offered drinks from the bar. The food choices were, quite frankly, amazing. Not only was there an extensive printed menu: ten “little dishes”, ten “big dishes”, plus “sides” and six “Puddings”, but the “blackboard” had a further 6 starters, 8 mains and 2 deserts; all changed every week. It really was a difficult choice.
The chef, Garry Parrett, is not new but he has re-jigged the menu gloriously; French provincial cooking, but without national boundaries, his manager Andy should be proud of him. Our starters were both “tians”, or shallow grilled dishes. We gave 4½ for both the smoked salmon mousse with smoked salmon and cucumber relish; and also the Parma ham with olives and tomatoes. Both with pleasantly dressed green salad. Just the right astringency for a starter.
Main courses were fillet of beef with thyme potatoes, beef tomatoes and Portobello mushrooms: only given 3½ because the meat was a bit chewy. There was also a choice of jus: red wine or peppercorn. The other main was a beautifully cooked herb encrusted shark loin steak; complete with a delicious white wine veloute sauce, plus minted new potatoes: I gave 4½ for this dish, which was a real melt in the mouth sensation.
Desserts to finish off were a selection of “4 British cheeses”, one of which was a complete mystery to everyone including the staff!; together with a superb gooseberry chutney – this pushed the points up to 4 out of 5.  My apple galette with maple syrup and walnut ice cream was spoiled by being soggy and heavy underneath, hence 3 out of 5. We finished with coffee which is best described as OK certainly not special.
Just in case you wondered, we did not have wine, but partook of bar style drinks.
In conclusion we will repeat our plaudits, and thank McMullens for their enterprising staff. Well worth a visit: open seven days a week, but book for evenings; the smoking area cannot be booked in advance [it is part of the popular bar area].
Review  Date:5-05

Jolly Waggoner
LOCATION: Church End, Ardeley
TELEPHONE: 01438 861350
PARKING/ ACCESS: On site parking, level access, walkers welcome.
CUISINE: Traditional English
COVERS: 30
SMOKING: allowed in bar area
FOOD:   ****
Comment:  freshly prepared
AMBIANCE:   *****
Comment: Like a new pin
SERVICE:  *****
Comment: falling over to please
VALUE: ****

New tenants in a well known hostelry never have an easy job: if it was well run, they have to come up to scratch very quickly; if it has been allowed to get tired (as in this case) they have to work very hard to get their regulars back. Sandra Denchfield has got it right! Together with her family and chef Mark, a tight ship is being sailed to clear waters … of course it helps that she lives locally, and knows the customers as village neighbours. Everything has been revitalised: style, menu, decoration, all with a smiling face, in a delightful rural location. Amazingly all in two months.
Daily menus are shown on the blackboard, and there is often a change between lunch and dinner. One chooses between six starters, six mains and puddings. We arrived on a Tuesday at about 2pm, and there was no hint of closing, even though we were prepared for a rebuff, being the last customers.  We could have eaten outside, but we opted for the pristine dining area with spotless wooden tables.
Our starter choice was a mushroom and leek soup; and while we were waiting, cutlery, serviettes and white and brown bread appeared along with butter in small dishes. Excellent, no fiddling with those nasty little packets beloved by so many establishments.  I felt this delicious soup should get a full 5 points, and my wife who is a connoisseur in these matters totally agreed.
My main course was a delicious steak and ale pie (Abbotts?) - a melt in the mouth experience. The steak was without fat, strings, bone or gristle, the juices were without fat and tasted of ale, while the flaky pastry lid, which appeared to be separately cooked - was perfect; it all arrived plated rather than in a dish, but who cares!  The other main dish was a perfectly poached peaches and salmon, with a watercress mayonnaise. This was given a full five points. The separate vegetable selection provided a good choice, and was given 4 points, as it added to the “service” element. Deserts were either home made puddings or a rather pedestrian choice of cheeses; in the interests of a full revue we went for the puddings! The home made pineapple cheesecake was OK, but not really cheesy enough, only 3 points. My apple and rhubarb crumble had ingredients definitely straight out of the garden, everything a home made pud should be. Five points.
Prices in the evening are going to be a little higher, but that is to be expected. Open now all day seven days a week.
Well placed for a break during a day’s walk, stroll, or drive, I feel you will enjoy your visit.
Review  Date:12-05

Kick and Dicky
LOCATION: Well Pond Green, near Standon
TELEPHONE: 01920 821424
PARKING/ ACCESS:  Own Parking, level access
CUISINE: Modern European
COVERS: 70
SMOKING: permitted in bar, because of residents.
FOOD:   ****
Comment: Well prepared, attractively presented
AMBIANCE:   *****
Comment:  absolutely stunning
SERVICE:  ****
Comment:  made to feel welcome
VALUE:  ****

Time has gone into reverse for the Nags Head at Wellpond Green; she has become a sprightly youngster: The Kick, plus a smart cart: the Dicky. By all accounts there has been an earlier time shift, because older locals can recall the current name being in use in earlier times. The new owners purchased the freehold earlier this year, and they have done wonders with the décor. They wish it to be known as a country inn and restaurant, and have gone out of their way to create a quality feel. Frankie Aspin and Cathy Ashley are well known in the area, both for their experience in catering (e.g. Flutes, Three Tuns, etc) and links with local families.
We decided not stay in the bar to select our choices as it was quite smoky; entering the dining area we were stopped in our tracks by the superb wooden furnishings: polished Belgian tables and chairs in a light and airy dining room.  The place settings were sparkling and complemented by crisp linen napkins.
Whilst we were making our selections, French bread and a dish of butter appeared, as did a jug of  Aqua de Trois Vallée, as it should. Plus I am sorry to say some “Muzac”; are modern youngsters so afraid of quiet? Still let’s not be picky – it was a good start.
The house wine was a delightful Côte de Rhone, which arrived in a carafe. The starters arrived: Mussels, given a full 5 points; Mushroom salad with quail’s eggs, lightly dressed and deemed wonderful, again 5 points; and finally a scrumptious coarse paté with a jelly of redcurrants, peppers and oranges: my mouth waters at the thought! A full five points.
Main courses were again innovative, but not quite so well received: Veal in a rich sauce was found to be quite tender but not of the best: 4 points given. The Moroccan Chicken was a pleasure to eat and relish: given a full 5; the third main was sliced roasted duck in a very flavoursome berry sauce, sadly the bird was a bit tough, and I had to spend some time de skinning and de fatting the meat. I only gave 4 points here.
Vegetables were of satisfactory quality.
Being told that chef prepares his own desserts (but not ice cream); we threw away the diet book and went for a testing of the sweet courses; all of which received a full five points. For the record these were a) chocolate pyramids: white on the outside – dark on the inside: scrumptious; iced soufflé – as it is served in Heaven! And, cheese cake, which was probably made from mascarpone: excellent. Then to finish up some antioxidants in the form of coffee and mints. According to our server a new machine for a selection of coffees is awaited, but this filter coffee, was quite acceptable.
Menus are changed regularly, and it is possible to come for lunch or week end dinners and have a fixed price selection (2 courses at £14, three at £17).
The enthusiastic proprietors aim to have the best (sic) restaurant in Hertfordshire, if they progress at the pace they have started, they may just achieve that status. Well worth a visit, and you can put unexpected visitors in the accommodation!
Update {July 2006): Went for a Dailly Telegraph” promotional lunch; the above standard are being maintained, and we all thought that the promotion would succeed in producing return clients.
Update (June 2007). Seems to have moved away from exclusivity to good.
Review  Date: 6-07



Lussmanns
LOCATION: 42 Fore Street, Hertford
TELEPHONE: 01992 505329
PARKING/ ACCESS:  On street or Multi-storey; short walk
  If downstairs via spiral staircase
CUISINE: Italian - English
COVERS: 70
SMOKING: Yes at some tables
FOOD: ****
  Well prepared but limited selection
AMBIANCE ***:
  Modern ambiance; on two levels
SERVICE: ***
  Friendly, efficient and welcoming
VALUE: ****
Good value well worth a visit

 
Lussmanns is in central Hertford: At this particular location there has been a succession of eating places over the last dozen years or so. Let us hope that that this privately owned establishment has got it right. The local manager Katrina makes her presence known throughout the restaurant and whilst I cannot compare this branch with their other in Kensington, she appears to run a tight ship.
Unpretentious, calling itself an eatery, there is a limited menu with a range to suit most diners. Dining is on two levels with a large number of steps to negotiate to the basement Open throughout the day for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
We tried two bruschettas for starters, a classic and a mushroom. The grilled bread appeared just right and the vegetables pleasantly garnished with herbs and garlic in moderation. Points out of five: 4 ½. It would not be surprising if some diners opted for two starters rather than follow the accepted sequence of courses, as they were delicious.  The ordered house wines arrived at this point and although the selection was limited there would be enough to satisfy all but the most fastidious. The prices were average and the selection was all Old World..
The glasses of Three Valleys water never arrived.
Mains were selected from the pasta section and again given 4 ½ points each. The rigatoni Bolognese was very meaty with no evidence of a cheap mince [the menu claimed all meat to be ”local English” produce].  Likewise the Lasagne al Forno appeared to come straight from the oven; the pasta without any sign of drying out. I have to admit our plates were spotless when they were collected.
As ever the puddings let the establishment down: pastries probably bought in; my “tart citron” was very much a “lemon curd tart”. To be fair however, the items with fresh fruit were of generous proportions. Coffee was OK.
Another visit showed a change in style: less Italian influence, more middle of the road dining. A pity.
Clients on this Thursday evening were small groups; with a pronounced relaxed atmosphere. Also, the tables were all full by 9pm; so booking is a good idea for week-ends. A pleasant experience, reasonable costs and recommended.
Review  Date:12-04
Updated April 2008

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Marconatos
TELEPHONE: 
PARKING/ ACCESS: on street
CUISINE: Italian
COVERS: 250
SMOKING: no
FOOD:   ***
Comment: basic Italian
AMBIANCE:  ***
Comment: noisy and happy
SERVICE:  ***
Comment:  A bit like NAAFI
VALUE: ****

Very variable views on this establishment; perhaps depending upon our respondents’ age and who they went with.  There is a party atmosphere all the time which is very jolly if that is what you want; if you want a romantic evening for two, then this place is over powering.
Review  Date:1-06

The Merchant House
LOCATION: 51 St Andrew Street, Hertford. SG14 1HZ
TELEPHONE: 01992 504504
PARKING/ ACCESS: use public car park, or on street in evening
CUISINE: modern European
COVERS: 40
FOOD:    ****    :  Modern European
AMBIANCE:   *****   :  Re-furbished tastefully
SERVICE:  *****   :  High standard
VALUE:  ****    :  Good value for lunch, evening tends to be expensive
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): lunchtime: £43:75


The four partners: Barry and Chris Hozier, and Sarah, the restaurant manager and Geoff, the Chef, have turned this recent antiques centre into an extremely attractive restaurant. The building has been returned somewhat to original layout – with two floors for dining. Once the problem of parking has been overcome [look out for yellow lines] and one enters the front door, one is struck by the delightful ambiance of the place.   The staff were very welcoming for our lunch time visit, and showed us straight to our table complete with crisp white linen and gleaming silverware. There is enough drapes to ensure there Is not too much bounced sound.
To claim [as on their website] that this is the only fine dining venue in Hertford is not really justified, but “fine” and “independent” it is. The choices are good with a light and standard menu available; and mix and match is in order. We for opted for a variety of main dishes and puddings.
All the chosen dishes were given 4 points out of five, as presentation was always excellent and the food well prepared. The dishes were char grilled honey glazed chicken, sausage and mash and butter battered cod. All these were considered basic lunch menu items, and all were enjoyed, but no one had the “wow” factor, despite being visually attractive. Pudding were very successful: a crumble was given a full 5 points, as was the brûlée; a praline with chocolate was considered poor and only given 3 points because of a poor flavour – does this indicate some items are bought in?  Coffee was available, and considered just OK.
Our considered opinion was that this establishment could succeed, but judgement is suspended until some of the teething problems are sorted out; one of which is the deliberate image of expensive and good. It remains to be seen whether in these days of tightened belts, this is the image necessary to succeed, let alone survive. If personality is the deciding factor, there will be no problem.  We wish then well.
Since writing this review I have had a mixed bag of feed back observations; also we have returned more than once; these can be condensed into:
“If you promise the best, then clients will be disappointed if it does not appear. Far better to exceed your clients’ expectations!”

Revised date: January 2009


Moon & Stars, The
LOCATION: Mill End, Rushden, SG9 0TA
TELEPHONE: 01763 288330
PARKING/ ACCESS: own
CUISINE: Pub
COVERS: 14-16
SMOKING: no
FOOD:    ****   :  good quality, well prepared
AMBIANCE:   ****   :  pleasant country pub
SERVICE:  ****   :  efficient and personal
VALUE:  ****   :  food is good value
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £29:10

Not that easy to find for strangers (sat. navs. get confused!) but well worth finding. Neil and Anita Martin are an experienced pair – they used to run the Bull at Cottered, a favourite of ours. The ambiance of this very small pub is very traditional, but spotless: highly polished wood tables, with a danger of items sliding around, and a small, airy room. Silverware and paper serviettes were ready for diners as they arrived. A special low cost lunch was available, so that was where we went! The selection was of necessity restricted – about three for each course – but we were well pleased.
At another table a client was having his courgette and mushroom soup; he gave a thumbs up for this starter. Ours were (a large helping) of goat’s cheese with a dressed salad, mine was a home produced mackerel paté with dressed salad. Both were excellent, helped along by a special oat bread, which was first class. Wines were listed on a blackboard: available by the glass or bottle; a bit pricey, but we chose an Australian   Shiraz blend at £13:50, which was very drinkable. For a main course we both had steaks, the different rareness requested being carried our to perfection, the meat was very high quality, apparently from Piggets of Ware. As an aside the sausages are purchased from Broad Oak – a really good supplier. Puddings I’m afraid were a let down: the caramelised lemon tart, gave the impression of being a bought in tart, subjected to a quick run over with a blow torch!  Eatable but not exciting.
The overall enjoyment means we are happy to return; it is still early days for this team to establish their reputation, but they are known for good food, and we wish them well. Well worth a call, either by car, or if you want a walk around pleasant countryside.
Revue date: 8/06

No. eleven
LOCATION: 11 Old Cross, Hertford
TELEPHONE: 01992 558564
PARKING/ ACCESS: use public parking in St Andrews Street
CUISINE: Modern European
COVERS: 20
SMOKING: permitted in bar area
FOOD:    ***   :  prepared as you wait
AMBIANCE:   ***   :  modem
SERVICE:  **    : poor
VALUE:  ***   : reasonable value
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons):  £40

Located in a very prominent position by the traffic lights at Old Cross in Hertford, we decided on an evening visit, having parked the car around the corner. The first impressions are favourable, being modern and sharp edged. The tables for dining are at the far end of the bar area, and were wood and stainless steel – with stools for seating. There was no linen or silver ware at this time. The waitresses were pleasant but untrained, having no knowledge of the menu contents: they had to keep trotting off to ask Daniel the most basic of questions. The listing of food was short but interesting; lamination would have kept them more presentable.  Throughout the meal there was quite a lot of noise from the bar area, including “Muzac”; and more annoyingly a waft of cigarette smoke. Service was on the slow side, but we were in no hurry. Three Valleys came with ice and lemon in glasses when requested. The house wine was a rather nice Australian Shiraz at £13:50, served at a good room temperature. Linen serviettes were supplied – always a plus for M.
The two mains were ordered, and the presentation was of a high standard, we both like to have an attractive plate to look at before we start the demolition process. Braughing sausage with an interesting mash was given 4½ points by someone who is not that keen on sausages! (Not M). I had a Pasta with chicken and mushroom carbanara sauce. (This was of the unanswered questions: what pasta?). It was linguini. This dropped a point because the pasta was not “al dente”.
Puddings: limited in number but home made I think, were very good. A cheesecake of white chocolate with a ginger-ish base, and a homemade fudge given a good 4½. The ice cream and sorbet selection was mint and chocolate - only given 3 points.
Dan and Elaine joint owners have not quite got it together; No. 11 is a bar with an eating area, Daniel the chef may well be a bit frustrated, that he cannot produce a dining room experience. However a little bird tells me that this team has ideas for a certain pub in Bramfield that has been out of action for a number of years. If this is so, then I wish them well, and every success. They may be a team to watch
Revue date: 8/06

Nolita
LOCATION: Great North Road, Brookmans Park, AL9 6NA
TELEPHONE: 01707 644858
PARKING/ ACCESS: large area in front
CUISINE: Italian
COVERS: 100
FOOD:    *****   :  faultless
AMBIANCE:   *****   :  modern and near to perfect.
SERVICE:  *****   :  perfection
VALUE:  ****    :  high price, for high service
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £100:00

You cannot touch the Italians when they get it right. Style is theirs (despite the French view). Nolita is a very well established restaurant just enough South of Hatfield to be called Brookman Park – and all that implies! At week ends it can be very busy, but go during the week, and you find the best Italian for miles.
Despite our sat-nav not recognising the post code, Nolita is easy to find on the Great North Road, being very conspicuous, in a restrained way!
Greeting at the door was very warm (was it Svetlana?), and we were taken to our table immediately. The entry is though a bar area, quite small, and into an airy well proportioned dining area. Sparkling glasses and silver ware, upon crisp linen always gives a good impression.
Bread and iced water appeared immediately, and our rather nervous young waitress poured a little too enthusiastically, and some water was slopped upon the table. It is the way problems are dealt with that gives the image of the management, after all accidents will occur, and the client should make light of them if at possible. Here absolute professionalism: abject apologies were given, and accepted, and we were whisked off to a new table, rapidly followed by our bread and water. Absolutely the correct way to deal with such a mishap.
We chose our selections from a large menu, and decided on a light Valpoliccello for our drink. Well, when the maitre d’ then says “we have a much better wine for you to try, one would both discourteous and a fool not to listen to his advice. The suggestion was for there own house wine, a Salento, branded Canonico. Well it came, it was very dark, but surprisingly light in body, and a matching fruity aroma, and we liked it, and yes it went well with our selections. We said so, and indicated it was unknown to us, and lo and behold, our maitre went off to the kitchen to soak off the label and give to us! Service indeed. This set us back £6:50 per large glass, but who is adding up?
Two starters were £8 and £9:50 each, these were a delight, being a fine fresh soup, and butterflied sardines grilled with herbs “sardine messinese”, both worth a full five points for taste and presentation. Swordfish and veal were our chosen main dishes and again these were excellent, priced at £20 each. tender and tasty could be applied to both, and again first class presentation and service.
It was at this point we became aware of the live entertainment: a guitar and vocalist singing happily to themselves. Amplification is not really need in such a small space, but they appeared to need it.
We finished off our meal with crepe suzettes, coffees, which were excellent, and a liqueur, well it was a special night out for us!
The inevitable service charge was added, plus a cover charge. I did wonder if we had stayed at our first damp table, if this would have been removed… Bearing in mind the high standards, and the corresponding high charges, I wonder if clients feel irritated by this charge – slightly old fashioned I think.
Highly recommended for something special

Revue date: July 2008

Novelli at the White Horse
LOCATION: Hatching Green, Harpenden, AL5 2JP
TELEPHONE: 01582 713428
PARKING/ ACCESS: own large car park, level access
CUISINE:  French “gastro pub”
COVERS: 65
FOOD:    ****    :  leans towards fish, innovative, well prepared
AMBIANCE:   ****    :  clean, modern
SERVICE:  ****    :  efficient
VALUE:  ***     :  restaurant prices
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £83

Jean-Christophe Novelli comes to this pub with a history based on celebrity performance in the kitchen. Hence our subjective review will be a bit picky. We went expecting perfection! First off of course is our Frenchman’s use of the title “gastro pub”. To our minds there are two routes for this title: a). a pub where the chef has gone to great lengths to provide exceptional food at pub prices, and b). where a restaurant decides to do away with soft furnishings and table linen, provide good plated food and charge restaurant prices. We are always looking for the former, but J-C has fallen into the second category.
We booked and went with friends on a Saturday evening, when we expected the place to be busy, and it was, but the continental staff coped very well. Frederic Sol, the general manager was hovering in the background all the time. We were shown to our table promptly in the fresh dining room where the hard surfaces caused a lot of happy background noise, intimate conversation was near nigh impossible because of the high volume. It takes longer to choose the wine than to decide upon the menu choices; the wine list being very long, the menu quite short. On offer was the “fricassee du jour”. This turned out to be pork belly which three of us chose, the fourth order being the veal sweetbreads. Starters were a terrine, mushroom gratin or shrimps. The wine chosen was a Côtes du Ventôux; at a very reasonable £16 [another vineyard was twice the price]. Water was requested in a jug. It was at this point the waiter asked, in all seriousness, how many “breads” we would like, and suggested two….
The starters, bread, wine and water all arrived at the same time. The jug of water was complete with ice at this time, but no refreshing citrus slices were present. When refilled later in the meal it was devoid of ice too. Poor. The wine was perfect for our requirements. The “breads” are a novelty feature of J-C, being a rather ordinary bread mix in a flower pot!  Sharing this was a bit of a hoot, but our humour was tempered by the thought that each miniature loaf was being charged at £2:25,which we felt it was a bit of a cheek.
All the starters were given high points: 4; all were accompanied by a small amount of some herb – not dressed, and a dribble of balsamic vinegar, for the artistic appearance. My terrine was coarse and accompanied by some good chutney, very enjoyable except for some pieces of very chewy liver. The freshly baked flower pot bread was an essential part of this dish.
Our friend J. who had the veal sweetbreads, pronounced them first class, and added that he finds it quite difficult to find this dish on many menus. He gave 4 points. The remaining three had the fricassée of pork  belly; Our other friend M. was unlucky and declared hers rather chewy; J. and M. had a delightful slow cooked dish with a very rich sauce. The accompanying Thai aubergines were a surprise, looking more like figs, but with a flavour blending in with the dish; again 4 points
The deserts appeared pricey, at £6:50 each, but this was a special outing, so the Tarte Tatin was ordered [with a delay for preparation] along with honeycomb parfait, crème brulé, and a rum baba. All were given 4 points, except the tarte, which I gave a full 5 (but then I am a sucker for apple dishes).
A very enjoyable evening out, the noise levels increased steadily throughout the evening, as did the temperature (hence the need for iced water). Casual dress was the norm, friend J. probably wearing the only tie, and jackets being counted on one hand. It is essential to book in advance because it has caught on with the affluent 40+ year olds.
Revue date: 6/07


Old Bridge Hotel, The
LOCATION: 1 High Street, Huntingdon, Cambs. PE29 3TQ
TELEPHONE: 01480 424300
PARKING/ ACCESS: own
CUISINE: modern English
COVERS: 60
SMOKING: no
FOOD:    *****   :  superb
AMBIANCE:   *****   :  fresh and traditional
SERVICE:  *****   :  outstanding
VALUE:  *****   :  amazing
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £44:20

What a find – if you can get to it! No, it’s not as bad as that, but access through Huntingdon is not easy with the ring road: follow this round, and you will find this delightful property. J and I went looking for this place one afternoon, and weren’t we pleased we persisted. One of a group of four restaurants in the area, we were delighted at the wide selection of dishes and wines; and the value for money spent.
We opted for the “bargain Lunch” menu: two courses for £14:00; followed by two coffees instead of puddings. The menus change regularly, and we can guarantee you find your needs fulfilled by their vast choices. Drinks are worth a special mention: a really large selection at reasonable prices, and a great number of these available by the glass (essential when driving after the meal). Just whet your appetite for a more relaxed occasion, there are additionally four ports, and nine sweet wines by the glass.
Out o area, but well worth the journey.
Revue date: 8/06


Olive Tree ,The
LOCATION:   South Street, Bishops Stortford
TELEPHONE: 
PARKING/ ACCESS: yes, but limited; best in public car park close by.
CUISINE: Mediterranean
COVERS: 60 plus
SMOKING: no

FOOD:   **    Lost its way
AMBIANCE:   **   basic modern
SERVICE:  **   ok
VALUE: ***   just ok.

Advertised as “the taste of the Mediterranean”; we went for dinner here full of expectation, but sadly the event did not live up to its promise. The meal deteriorated as the courses progressed: our starters were all enjoyed: the calamari deemed one of the best given 4½ stars – not chewy at all. Also the smooth pate was very enjoyable as was the halloumi – a toasted Greek cheese rather like feta; all served with a token rocket salad. The mains were disappointing the poached salmon was probably cooked in “fish” receptacles, and was heavily tainted with a fishy smell (2 stars). My lamb was described as Moroccan; and it probably was when it started its journey to Ware. Sadly the ewe was over cooked in order to tenderise it, and the token couscous was the connection to the Middle East (2 stars); flavour was almost non existent. A chicken and bacon (hllall!)dish was better. Sweet courses were a so called New York cheesecake and tartufo, both of which were very obviously bought in and of poor quality. Drinks were inexpensive, and portions were large [I was even offered sauté potatoes with my couscous! (2 stars)
We feel we could not recommend this for any special event.
Review  Date:10-04

One O Two
LOCATION: 102 High Street, Potters Bar, EN6 5AT
TELEPHONE: 01707 664411
PARKING/ ACCESS: Large public car park on opposite side of road [free after 18:30]
CUISINE: English & Mediterranean
COVERS: 48
SMOKING: No
FOOD: ****    Main courses were cooked to perfection.
AMBIANCE: ***    Very pleasant with modern furnishings. Flowers and quiet “Muzac”
SERVICE: ****    The management are very attentive, and personable.
VALUE: ***  Middle of the road pricing with choices to suit all.

I was encouraged to visit this eatery by a very proud grandma; and although right on the edge of our catchment area, it is very convenient if you use Cockfosters tube station for a day out. Located on the main road through Potters Bar; open Tuesday to Sunday at differing times. A family run establishment: The owner is Mike, with his son Darren running the kitchen. Their manager is another Mike who runs “what you see”. Very welcoming ambiance, with light and bright décor: a golden glow from the beech and blue furnishings and crisp white linen. Just one year old.

No pretensions, just well intentioned service to the customer. This is probably best typified by the house wine which was “Blossom Hill”; if you want to be more adventurous, there is a section of thirty or so from their cellar. The “a la carte” menu provided choices from about 10 starters, 15 mains and a dozen puddings. Our selections are as reported:

The chicken liver terrine was very smooth, but rather lacking in flavour for my palate; on the other hand the deep fried brie with a port coulis was very flavoursome – although a little too perfect in appearance, was it bought in? The mains on the other hand were obviously cooked in the kitchen: Veal escalope with ham and a red wine sauce was delicious and tender and worth the visit, the Monk fish was also cooked to perfection with it’s bed of spinach and mushrooms. The addition of Pernod with its strong aniseed flavour seemed slightly odd, but that again is a personal view.
Puddings are designed for mass appeal and we had “Brandy snap basket with strawberries and Chantilly Cream” and “Spotted Dick with custard”, which was very light - both were enjoyed,

There is a series of events which the owners organise at the restaurant (various theme days; and musical events) - they are working hard at establishing themselves. A very pleasant visit, not too far to drive, and a local family business.
10-04

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Paddyfields
LOCATION: 3 St Andrews Street, Hertford, Herts.
TELEPHONE: 01992 550582
PARKING/ ACCESS: use public car park in St Andrews St.
CUISINE: Chinese
FOOD:    ***     :  average
AMBIANCE:   ***     :  a little tired
SERVICE:  ****    :  very willing
VALUE:  ****    :  good value
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons):
  £44 (promotion)

Paddyfields has been in Hertford for so long, that no one remembers when it was not there!  When it opened, some years ago, ethnic restaurants were relatively unusual, but now there is a plethora of world dining experiences to be had. This means competition. Although  perfectly adequate, and with regular devotees Paddyfields is not exceptional enough to get high marks in our assessment;. The business will have to be a bit more innovative to recover some of its lost ground.

We went with a group (of 30) and the majority of who were pleased with the experience. However, the enjoyment may have been based on “good value” rather than  high quality. The multi-course meal was extremely good value, and was served enthusiastically by the staff. It never seemed to be coming to an end. The items served seemed no different to many other Chinese – Peking restaurants. That is not meant as a criticism, just an observation.
Overall impression: a good place to go for a Chinese meal; good value.    
Revue date: 2007, February

Peking House
LOCATION: 12-16 Fore Street, Hertford, SG14 1BZ
TELEPHONE: 01992 553689
PARKING/ ACCESS: use public car parks
CUISINE: Chinese
COVERS: 100
FOOD:    ****    :  above average
AMBIANCE:   ****    :  above average
SERVICE:  *****   :  excellent
VALUE:  ***     :  average
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £67:00

A very well established venue; about 24 years – 2 years with the current owner. Peking House has set the standard for Eastern fare in Hertford.  The management team are very welcoming and efficient. We went with a small group; and as ever in such circumstances, it best to order a variety of dishes and share them all. This we did and the various dishes arrived in the correct order; together with an explanation if needed, very efficiently.
Among the dishes sampled were: aromatic duck with pancakes – very efficiently prepared alongside the table [so good we ran out of pancakes], beef in a bean and chilli sauce [not too hot], stir fried chicken cashew nuts and the ubiquitous fried rice.
Peking House is a very pleasant venue with personal attention, and very hard working staff. An ideal location in East Herts for a “Chinese”

Revue date: April 2009

Piazza, la
LOCATION: 109-111 High Street, Hoddesdon, EN11 8TN
TELEPHONE: 01992 466677
PARKING/ ACCESS: use public car parks
CUISINE: Italian
COVERS: 60
FOOD:    ****    :  well prepared, good portions
AMBIANCE:   ***     :   modern and clean
SERVICE:  ***     :  efficient
VALUE:  ****    :  good value menu
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £48

Jack Teixeira is the manager of this well established pizzeria in the centre of Hoddesdon. Access is easy, but there is a short walk from the public parking places. Despite its title, there is an extensive menu; pasta and salads at about £7 and main meat and fish dishes at £14 or so. There is also a fairly short wine list, with house wine at £10:90, together with some beers.
We found the staff very accommodating and helpful - about three Italians in attendance. Main dishes were of a reasonable standard, not so good as to rave about, but well prepared and presented. The puddings were another matter. When I asked about my tiramisu, I was assured it was prepared on the premises; but when I asked about the lack of alcoholic ingredients, and a rather too perfect appearance, there was a certain amount of backtracking and blustering. This is really not good enough, honesty always pays, and if the staff think their clients cannot distinguish between good and poor dishes they will loose custom.
revue date: 6/07

Pink Geranium, The
LOCATION: 27 Station Road, Melbourn, Cambs. SG8 6DX
TELEPHONE: 01763 260215
PARKING/ ACCESS: own large car park
CUISINE: modern English
COVERS: 36, plus private function room
FOOD:    ****    :  well prepared, with an interesting slant, but … read on
AMBIANCE:   ****    :  the new furnishings are not quite right
SERVICE:  *****   :  very personal, and professional
VALUE:  ***      :  an expensive meal
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £94

Although boasting a long history as an eating establishment, the various owners have had to adapt to a changing scene; it is no longer possible to rely on personality presence – even if it is Royalty. The current owner, Ben Charlton, son of the original proprietor, took charge late last year. There has been a complete face lift, and the décor is modern and sharp. I personally don’t feel it is quite right for such an old building, it does not have to be chintzy, but a softer approach would be more in sympathy with the building. The structure itself is very attractive and shows the 400 year old structure to its best. Our group of four arrived at 7:30pm, as booked, and the entrance was unlocked for us! We were shown into a snug, cum bar area, and offered drink while we sorted out our orders.  There is a fixed price approach to choice, with the odd supplement thrown in; two courses for £29:50, three for £36:00.  Staffing includes Ben, who is adopting a hands on approach, very personable and knowledgeable about the menu. Progress through the dining experience is slow, but we didn’t particularly care, but fast food it is not. Our order was placed after a leisurely 30 minutes perusing the menu and wine list. We did try to order a Spanish red, but it was not available, so we opted for a Malbec from Argentina rather highly priced at £25.
We were now at our table, and at 8:30 an “amuse bouche”   arrived: a tiny but very interesting mushroom soup, with oil of truffle dribble on top – very palatable. It is now 8:45, and our wine bottle is empty! But, we have to drive several miles home, so decline our waiter’s offer of another bottle. Finally an hour and a half after arriving our starters arrive: roast Chanille quail with a spring onion and bacon risotto, was given a full 5points a wonderful combination, roasted figs with a toasted walnut brioche and rocket was given a 4+ for originality. A main course of fillet of Scottish beef (an extra £3:50), was excellent and given a full 5 points for flavour and preparation, whilst a honey roast duck, with cauliflower puree, beetroot, potato and Madeira sauce was delicious and given 5 too.
Sweets are sometimes a let down, as sadly this was no exception: an apple tart appeared to have been cooked/ reheated on the plate it was served on: it was well and truly stuck down with a gummy base – hence 2 points; and a cocoanut parfait was still frozen in the centre – really not good enough; hence 2 again.
To our way of thinking, there were only two sets of four pre-booked diners when we were there, with perhaps fours pairs of casual callers. Ben will have to work at his post for longer than he probably wishes, if his enterprises are to succeed. He has purchased Sheene Mill, just down the road, also. However the visit was worthwhile and interesting, and getting there is very easy, but the local signage is awful.  I do wish him success with Gavin and Finlay Austin, his two chefs, in his venture under the umbrella company of Vintage Inns.
Revue date: October 2007

Sadly this establishment has failed probably through losing the plot about what constitutes an olde worlde cottage!
Now a Thai restaurant – any reports?
Updated June 2008

Ponsbourne Park
LOCATION: Newgate Street Village
TELEPHONE: 01701 876191
PARKING/ ACCESS: Large car park; uphill access
CUISINE: English/ European
COVERS: 64
FOOD:    ***      :  A selection of about ten items per section
AMBIANCE:   ***      :  very much part of the hotel complex, but light and airy
SERVICE:  ****    :  attentive and efficient
VALUE:  *****   :  good value, especially if you become eligible for a loyalty card
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons):

The history of this estate goes back to Early English; with a number of interesting property owners. Perhaps the most interesting being the Seymour’s: Catherine being the widow of Henry VIII (Catherine Parr). In recent times it was St Dominic’s (Roman Catholic) School, before being acquired and extensively renovated by Tesco PLC as a training centre. Now it is additionally a 4 star hotel with 52 bedrooms, a swimming pool and 9 hole golf course. The restaurant is used by the hotel and pre-booked diners. Slick and efficient is the first impression, both when booking and upon arrival. This does not detract from the service provided by the young staff.
Generally one is shown straight to the Dining room, which is light and airy with views across the 200 acres of estate, but there is a bar for aperitifs, etc.
The management is trying to encourage regular clients with an “over 50 club” which offers discounts and other incentives; as well as regular special events, e.g. jazz plus dinner on regular Fridays’; there are also themed events. None of this would be successful if the food was not up to par [oops!].
We were shown to our table and immediately offered bottled water; we chose the specially filtered 3 Valleys variety in a jug. Our party of four had a selection of the menu (normally from ten items):
Starters; Cream of Mushroom soup was described by my friend as puréed and deemed good; I did notice the absence of any recognisable mushrooms, Smoked Salmon Blinis was enjoyed with a fresh crème fraiche; Duck Confit although nicely coarse was a bit bland even with the pear and ginger chutney; finally the stack of Tomato and Mozzarella was found to be just right with a delicious pesto.
Mains: as is usual with Grilled minute Steak my colleague was not asked how it should be cooked – so it arrived without a hint of pink, the Mustard Mash was without lumps and with a Red Wine Jus – very acceptable. Chicken Supreme with a wild Mushroom Mousse was demolished easily with a tarragon sauce. Pan fried Cod was well prepared in a Beurre Noisette, but the capers and prawns were deemed too dry and tasteless. The fourth main dish was a vegetarian dish based on tagliatelli with roasted vegetables, pine nuts and goats’ cheese: the portion was large enough for two and really had too much pasta; the combination of other flavours was excellent.  The three puddings we tried are best described as ordinary: Chocolate Marquise with Passion Fruit Coulis did no cause any stirring in the loins; Meringue with fruits of the Forest and Chantilly Cream was OK and the Profiteroles despite being with a dark chocolate sauce, as it should be, was rather synthetic and sweet. Tea and coffee (with cream and mints) came at the end of a well presented economical lunch.
Wines were good value and none of them was Tesco branded, even the house wine which came from Napa Valley. In fact to be fair to the Restaurant Manager there was no image of the owning company, even reflected. Really a very good venue for going out with friends and neighbours: no ostentation at all, with very attentive staff; and a discount thrown in too! A good advert for the owners; you cannot use your Club Card to gain Points, but then would you expect it!
Revue date: October 2004
Still showing very good value and excellent service, but a totally new team, provide by the Compass Group, the welcome was very warm.  A new menu was presented, and prices are still reasonable: three courses for £13:75. The starter of Guinea Fowl was excellent –a full 5 points given, and the salmon with a pesto given four points.  The main dish chosen was fillet of pork with apricot and basil mousse along with interesting accompaniments was first class, and given a full 5, as were the fruit fool and blackberry clafoutis with a calvados laced sherbet! All this plus tea or coffee and petit fours, for the inclusive price, excellent
Revision: October 2007


Priory Inn
LOCATION: London Road Tetbury, Gloucestershire, GL8 8JJ
TELEPHONE: 01666 502251
PARKING/ ACCESS: on street
CUISINE: modern English
COVERS: 50
SMOKING: no
FOOD:    *****   :  wonderful
AMBIANCE:   ****     :  modern and cheerful
SERVICE:  ****   :  excellent
VALUE:  ****   :  really good
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons):

If you find yourself with driving distance of this Inn, give your palate a treat and book a table. We had the most superb of steaks served the best selection of fresh vegetables we have ever had: straight from the duchy farms that day. J uses vegetables as her first barometer of a restaurant’s quality: peas and beans – and they lose a point. But here, we had fresh vegetables such as kohl robi that were pulled that day! Absolutely outstanding.
This place was so outstanding that we have decided to create an “out of area” section on the web site: please tell you approve.
Revue date: 8/06

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The Railway Inn
LOCATION: 1 London Road, Buntingford. SG9 9JJ
TELEPHONE: 01763 271374
PARKING/ ACCESS: large car park at rear
CUISINE: Chinese
COVERS: 30
SMOKING:
FOOD:    ***   :  Authentic, but not outstanding
SERVICE:  ***   :  friendly
VALUE:  ***   :  good value
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £42:00

Visited here with a group of diners, who were all satisfied with the quality of food and service. Very easy to find, and with plenty of parking, it is a popular venue for the locals. It has to said that it is not very different to a lot of Chinese restaurants, and would not warrant a long journey to it. With it’d built advantages, it could make a pleasant outing to this part of the county. Service was with “smile”, but conversation with the young staff was difficult, only because of language problems; the young manager did his best sorting out various questions.
Various wines and beers are available – it is a pub too – at reasonable prices. A basic selection, but nothing more would be called for, when eating Chinese. The house speciality is “crispy aromatic duck” and was served in quite large portions, along with the usual accompaniments.
The menu has the expected 200 lines, with set dinners as easy an opt out. Everything was as expected. Puddings for those that need them are restricted, but there is a collection of ice creams. Coffee and tea [black and green] is available. A pleasant experience.
Revue date: 7-06



Raj Villa
LOCATION: High road [old A10], High Cross
TELEPHONE: 01920 463353
PARKING/ ACCESS: large parking area/ steps
CUISINE: Contemporary Indian
COVERS: 120
FOOD:   ****    :  wide selection, typically Indian
AMBIANCE:   *****   :  modern
SERVICE:  ****    :  helpful, above average
VALUE:  ****    :  good value
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £59:50

On the site previously known as the Happy Eater, on the west side of the old A10 going North, (exiting the A10 at the Ware/ Thundridge junction), Raj Villa has established itself as a modern Indian restaurant; the location is difficult for the owners, since the opening of the A10 by-pass but their reputation has over come this. As one drives into the car park one is instantly aware that this is not a “passing trade” establishment: local cars are parked.  I was relieved to find that the decor was modern and spotless. Not a piece of red flock wallpaper in sight: glass and stainless steel. The only problem could be with so much glass along the front on a sunny summer’s day. Background modern “muzac” was intrusive.
A vast menu is available to cater for all palates, hot and mild with plenty in between. Our party had a varied selection but veered towards the mild curries.
Pre starters were praised, particularly the onion bhajis.
Three starters were all given 4 or 3.5 out of 5 for taste and quality: these were Lamb Korma, sheek kebab, prawn patia and Tandori machli. Beer and wine was available, as was a jug of iced water (with lemon). The house wines were reasonably priced and were re-badged French; the red was a very fruity variety reminiscent of a Gamay. Personally I drink a beer with this type of spiced meal; and again there was a good selection.
Popadoms and naan bread were available in vast quantities throughout the meal. The menu has many tempting divisions our selections being taken from “House Specialities” and “Chef’s Specialities”. There are other menu headings to help the diner through their list. The four courses chosen were given either 4.5 or 5 points out of 5: a really excellent rating. Service was Indian style being semi-plated, with hot plates in the middle. If I were to take Sharaz the manager to task, it would be to improve service: none of us really liked being leaned across. The best dish was Hara Chicken, a really delicate dish with yoghurt, mint and almonds. The remaining three were pronounced delicious and were lamb or chicken based: special Passanda (the nicest ever tasted), special Moglai again with yoghurt and almonds, and finally Chicken Goa (a finely spiced dish with lime and cocoanut milk. Sweet courses are readily available in Indian restaurants, but here there is a selection of ice cream dishes available.
Tea and coffee is available; I suppose I was rather shocked to find the cups of tea arrived complete with tea bag; whatever happened to traditional tea pots?
The manager was watching throughout, and oversaw his clients’ meals. A very pleasant experience
Revue date: 3-07


Redcoats Farmhouse Hotel
LOCATION: Redcoats Green, Little Wymondley, nr Hitchin, SG4 7JR
TELEPHONE: 01438 729500
PARKING/ ACCESS: Own car park
CUISINE: Modern English and European
COVERS: 80; booking recommended
FOOD:    *****   :  First class, freshly prepared
AMBIANCE:   ****    :   Delightful: wooden framed farm house conversion
SERVICE:  *****   :   Knowledgeable staff, efficient plated service
VALUE:  *****   :   Good value for lunch; dinner is expensive

COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): lunch £49:00; dinner £93

Being the second generation to run a business is not the easiest of options [just think of family help!], but the Butterfields have made a success of this hotel and restaurant.  Location is just off the A1 (M), A602 Hitchin junction in the village of Little Wymondley. Three of us went to lunch on a rather raw day; our greeting was warm – reinforced by the heat of several open fires. We ate in the conservatory, which was bright and cheery. The lunchtime menu changes daily and the Table d ’hôte menu allows you 2 or 3 courses at a very reasonable price. A jug of iced water appeared at the first asking. The wine list is extensive and allows for all tastes and price ranges; I suspect there is a good local independent wine merchant available. We chose an Italian country wine at £16:25, for our evening dinner and were well pleased There appears to be a string of specialist suppliers available to the chef when he creates his selections.
We all agreed to sacrifice ourselves to the enjoyment of three courses for the purposes of this revue. Throughout the meal we all made complimentary comments, along the lines “this must be freshly made” and, “I thought I’d died and gone to heaven” for the home made ice cream.  We ate at leisurely pace, as we know this is a more healthy way! We were there for 2 ½ hours; if however you are in a hurry one can pre order, by telephone or fax. An a la carte menu is available throughout the week and will cost about £40 pp. It also changes daily, and from what we saw, was very impressive. Week ends are not so flexible: ask first.
Starters: baked field mushrooms with goat’s cheese and pine nut crust with a special dressing: full marks [actually my friend suggested 10 out of 5!]. Marinated tomatoes baked with mozzarella and a balsamic dressing, again full marks. And Gary’s game terrine, with apricot chutney and hot toast: quite coarse, very flavoursome almost a meal in itself, again 5 out of 5. Well done Gary. Rather less marks (4) was given to the smooth Chicken pâté. Similar points were given to the roasted goat’s cheese and whitebait.
Paying these prices I expect perfection, and my only marginal gripe relates to the positioning of our table: it was too close to a corner. This meant our excellent waitress had to lean across one diner in order to serve another – poor attention to a small detail!
There were 8 selections on our lunch menu for mains. Again we strove for variety: seared calves liver and grilled bacon with red wine and thyme sauce. Marks only 4, because my friend would have preferred crispy bacon! Pork medallions au poivre were delicious and given 4½ points. Lamb Rogan Josh with rice, pickles and naan bread was very good; given 4 points and full marks for variety.
A word of warning: the list of puddings will tempt the most saintly; uncontrolled eaters will want them all [hey chef – there’s an idea: small portions of everything!].  Grand Marnier Parfait: it melted in the mouth, scrumptious. Christmas pudding ice cream: chef, where do we get the recipe, it has fruit and alcohol, and crystallised what-nots, but wow!  
I opted for the cheese selection and was not disappointed: four varieties, 2 French, 2 English a good way to finish off our lunch  wine which was a good value, but very smooth Australian Cabernet/ Shiraz.  But wait, coffee was on offer, and very good filter coffee it was too.
Our return visit was on a Saturday evening for dinner, again with friends, was equally satisfying, albeit a price increase only too apparent, but for an indulgent evening Redcoats could no be bettered. Our choices are included above. Well trained attentive staff, ensure comfort from the moment you enter: even to extending the use of the very comfy office to us while we waited for our table. Drink prices relate to large volumes, but perhaps one should be aware that a "g and t” and a Campari -Soda costs £4 each.
Along with their regular menu, I was fortunate enough to have the Partridge, perfectly cooked and with a selection of vegetables; this set me back £24, but then lamb streaks similarly served were £26 each, so prices are consistent, and the dishes were a very high standard
Final comment: a very well enjoyed meal; highly recommended for something “special”, or just for sharing with special friends.  
Revue date: 2006, January
Updated 2008, January


Le Rendezvous
LOCATION: 64 High Street, Ware
TELEPHONE: 01920 461021
PARKING/ ACCESS: use public car parks
CUISINE: French/ English
COVERS: 42
FOOD:    ****    :  fine dishes
AMBIANCE:   ***     :  homely and comfortable
SERVICE:  ****    :  very professional
VALUE:  ***     :  home cooking at an appropriate cost
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons):

Lesley and Jorge have managed to maintain the intimate atmosphere of this local French eatery, despite being the third owners of what is now a Ware institution. We went there for a lunch, at a special promotional price, courtesy “Telegraph”, and were delighted at the way we were treated and the value of the offering. Normal main courses are about £16 with starters and deserts at around £7.
House wine is recommended, being French and good value at £13:50 for a Merlot. Iced water came automatically; and the crisp linen was very welcome.
Our starters were a delicious tomato soup (5 points) and a smooth chicken liver paté with a Cumberland sauce, neither of which were exceptional (3 points) l. Main course was boeuf bourguignonne, which although small in proportion was absolutely delicious. This came plated with potatoes boulangère, and given full marks. Puddings were restricted: and crème brulé chosen – another party had profiteroles, and were delighted (not chosen by me, as I insist on dark chocolate!).
If you like your food piled high - this is not for you, but if you demand good service and authentic well prepared food, I can recommend it highly.  Booking is essential, the small courtyard is best in the summer evenings.

Review date March 2007

Restaurant 22
LOCATION: 22 Tudor Square, Ware, Herts, SG12 9XF
TELEPHONE: 01920 486688
PARKING/ ACCESS:  Use public car parks
CUISINE: Oriental Fusion
COVERS: 50
FOOD:    ****     :  lives up to its promise
AMBIANCE:   ****    :  clean and uncluttered
SERVICE:  ****    :  efficient
VALUE:  ****   :  good value
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £48

Went to this new establishment with a group, and was impressed. Located on the edge of the pedestrianised Tudor Square in Ware, you will have to park and walk to the restaurant, no matter what time of the day you go. Brightly lit and inviting, there is no oriental décor to see – quite refreshing! There is however “muzac” and this is distracting, but again not unexpected in a venue that is clearly aimed at the baby boomers.
Portions were a good size and with sufficient to share. Serving was easy with the modern “lazy susan”. Staff were small in number, but slick and knowledgeable in there service. Modern tables and silverware helped the intended image of “Oriental fusion”; if chopsticks were wanted, they were available, but knifes and forks are on the tables, along with crisp linen serviettes. An adequate selection of drinks is available, either from the bar or ordered at the table. Prices are average for restaurants: glasses of wine from £3:50, as is a small collection of beers. Jugs of drinking water are available on request.
The proprietor Sherman Li was in attendance and very much hands on, overseeing his staff. Claiming “minimum additives”, “no MSG in use” and “the freshest ingredients” together with “a true taste of the Orient”, Sherman has a lot to live up to, but in fairness he does so, extremely well.  Well known dishes like spare rib, chicken satay, aromatic duck, etc., and the vegetable selections and fried rice were all of the highest quality, and praised by all. Individual prices for dishes are around the £4 mark, but oriental dining involves a lot of sharing, so it is not easy to work out a per head cost, when a big variety is chosen.
One of our number did not throw Sherman when she announced that she had a severe allergy to shell fish. After a short delay a separately prepared dish of shredded beef with chilly appeared, which our friend promptly shared, as it was so good. Excellent service, an example to many other establishments.
With this kind of social dining it is not easy to compare with European style eating, but the steady flow of well prepared dished equated to three courses, but no sweet course. If this is required a selection of fancy ice creams is available, but we were well satisfied and ended with coffee or tea.
Finger-bowls were provided, but not one per diner [No matter who my friends are, I would prefer not to share their mucky bowls, or them mine!]. Individual hot towels were provided at the end of the meal however. The addition of a cover charge, at certain times of the week will annoy some clients – understandably, myself included.
At the time of writing, there are some special deals available, such as “10% off for cash” and “eat all you can for £16:50,” on Sundays and mid week.
Recommended for an enjoyable and reasonably priced modern dining experience.
Revue date: January 2008

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Saba
LOCATION: 17 Heritage Close, St Albans, AL3 4EB
TELEPHONE: 01727 812301
PARKING/ ACCESS; use public car parks (a few minutes walk)
CUISINE: modern European
COVERS: 60
FOOD:    ****    :  Innovative and well prepared
AMBIANCE:   *****   :  Modern
SERVICE:  ****    :  High standard
VALUE:  ****    :  High cost for original presentations
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £85

Full marks for originality, at this new (October 2007) venue. Two floors for eating: lower for a tapas style eatery; upstairs for a modern ding room. The general manger, Luca, and his partners have a fine team with them, on our visit, Eric was in charge of the kitchen, and Simon was playing the guitar in the eating area. First impressions were good, with crisp white linen and modern silverware on the tables.
There is an “a la carte” menu, with a strong Mediterranean influence, and as a novelty a “declinaison menu”. I did try to find the meaning of this description, but could only find the translated to mean: decline, slope, dip, incline, etc. As there is no connection with either compasses or grammar; it appears a rather foody use to cover a tasting menu – so there you go!
The restaurant is modern, smart and on two levels: tapas downstairs, restaurant upstairs, both accessible from paved areas. Service was mostly of a high standard and the staff knowledgeable about the choices. We ate here with a group of friends, and all opted for the tasting menu. -  one major ingredient prepared in three different ways. A truly l innovative way to show what the chef can do. Advertisements claim previous experience at the Auberge du Lac, fortunately there was a lack of pretentiousness.
A big wine list is available, and also some by the glass, all overpriced. For example my Châteauneuf du Pape (ordinaire), was £7:50. Jugs of water and rolls were brought without a problem. One observation I made, Luca, was that a knife accidentally dropped by a diner, was totally ignored by all the staff; despite the clatter, and was actually stepped over by one of them.  Must try harder!
There is a choice to be made for each of the three courses, for example pumpkin, salmon or foie gras for starters, and beef, Lamb or scallop for main courses. All then prepared in three different ways. I decided on the politically incorrect foie gras and beef.  It was really an excellent decision, with Eric showing his skills off admirably I was a little doubtful about the beef fillet on foie gras – it was not the best of cuts, being a little chewy, but I must admit I am being a bit picky. Those choosing the fish alternatives were not so pleased, partly because they arrived on the cool side. Cold fish is definitely not acceptable to most diners. It may be that the kitchen was overstretched that evening (it was mid-week and packed out), but that is really not a good excuse for what was slow service. In itself not a criticism, slow food is an admirable way to dine after all. So perhaps times when there are large groups should be avoided.
I am please to highly recommend a visit here, and the tasting menu at £37.95 gives a variety to your eating at a reasonable cost. Two “chef’s tasters” were brought between courses, perhaps to fill out the waiting time! No! That’s unfair they were very nice.
There is an A la Carte menu available, with three courses at £29:95; the choices will change regularly
Revue date: January 2008

The Salisbury Arms Hotel
LOCATION: Fore Street, Hertford, SG14 1BZ
TELEPHONE: 01992 583091
PARKING/ ACCESS: secure parking, level access
CUISINE: European
COVERS: 60
SMOKING: no, allowed in one bar only
FOOD:    ****   : very well prepared, good variety
AMBIANCE:   ****   :  fine traditional coaching inn
SERVICE:  ****:   professional and friendly
VALUE:  ****   :  outstanding value
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £61

It is so easy to overlook a place that has become part of the landscape; so with an apology to the managers Mike and Sharon; I shall attempt to rectify my omission. Everyone living in Hertford eats at the Salisbury some time, it is an institution, and it is a standard against which to judge others. Despite of, or is because of, it’s being the McMullen’s flagship premises; it has its own defined character: hotel, lunch venue, a good bar, dining out, meeting venue, etc.
Lunch and dinner menus change regularly, and one can dine as quickly or slowly as one needs. The chef appears to have a lot of flexibility, and this is s reason why so many eat there regularly. Some dishes he dare not change, I have it good authority that his steak and kidney pies are regularly purchased to take home; certainly the pastry does the filling justice, and they are made and presented in individual dishes. Wine lists are large and reasonably priced – the house wines being one handled by McMullens, and are good value, with a choice of “by the glass”, always available for those who wish to restrict their intake. A good move.
The service is semi-silver, the main dish being brought plated, but the vegetables are either served, or brought on individual side plates – another good element.
The young staff are well managed, and maintain smiles throughout – not always easy in a service situation. We are given the impression that the customer is king – excellent!
Do mail us with your favourite dishes.
Review  Date: 7-06

Sfizio
LOCATION: 46-7 Church Street, Ware, SG12 9EW
TELEPHONE: 01920 463933
PARKING/ ACCESS: use public car parks
CUISINE: Italian
COVERS: 65
FOOD:    ***     :  only average quality
AMBIANCE:   **      :  rather basic
SERVICE:  ***     :  adequate
VALUE:  ****    :  average
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £37

Bare tables and paper serviettes indicate the basic nature of this restaurant; the owner is Italian and boasts an Italian chef, the quality however is rather mundane, when we ate there recently. The main course of salmon was fine, but the lasagne was not good: the pasta being tough – probably through being reheated. House wine was an Italian variety from the Venice district and was a good value choice.
Franco will have to tighten up his presentation skills if he is to attract the discerning diner. If however he is happy with his lower charges and basic approach to food, he might well find another client base that keeps coming back for basic Italian fare

Revue date: 6/07


Shahenshah
LOCATION: 6-10 Fore Street, Hertford
TELEPHONE: 01992 554828
PARKING/ ACCESS: use public car parks
CUISINE: Indian
COVERS:
SMOKING:

FOOD:    ***    :  wonderful
AMBIANCE:   ***    :  xx
SERVICE:  ****   :  attentive and friendly
VALUE:  ****   :  reasonable

COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons):

RHD comments: the best Indian restaurant for miles around. Very attentive & friendly staff, wonderful food, at reasonable prices.- have been going there for 20 years or so !!!! 
Review  Date: 7-06

The Sheen Mill
LOCATION:  37-39 Station Road, Melbourn, Cambs. SG8 6DX
TELEPHONE: 01763 261393
PARKING/ ACCESS:  large gravel area
CUISINE: Modern International
COVERS: 100
FOOD:    ****    :  excellent choices well prepared
AMBIANCE:   ****    :  blend of modern and traditional
SERVICE:  *****   :  impossible to fault
VALUE:  ****    :  Expensive, similar to London
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £94:30

A week end visit here was a pleasant experience. We did note some administrative changes however, which could lead to some improvements to the historical image. The original family owners have now given way to chef Jean-Paul, who has taken direct charge of all elements of this restaurant. There is now no connection to the Pink Geranium – up the road. The appearance has hardly changed – a large and airy main dining area with side rooms to accommodate a variety of party sizes. The outside view of the river is just as charming. The staff despite their youth are well trained and a delight to deal with, all credit to Andrea the room manager.
The fixed price menu has five selections per course, and is well balanced; costs are: £25 for two courses, £32 for three, with a £4 supplement for the cheese board! This equates to paying £7 for a pudding and an enormous £11 for cheese: we suggest this is impossible to justify.
This apart it was a very pleasant dining experience; we were all delighted with the skill of the chef. Our choices included starters of tomato tart, and secondly Parma ham with black figs and aged Parmesan (is there any other kind?). Both of these were well received, despite a mystery green tasteless garnish.
The mains were a delight: Spring lamb was cooked to perfection, and as J. requested – given a full 5 points. The slow cooked Gressingham duck leg with vanilla potato puree, Shitake mushrooms, Pak Choi and Soya, just missed a full five points by being a bit over cooked and dry “at the edges”.
Our accompanying Cote du Rhone was priced at £14:95, and was well matched. A jug of water was available as was a plentiful supply of fresh (albeit rather salty) bread.
A couple of our group opted for puddings – despite the cost – and found them very enjoyable, the two chosen were caramelised apple tart with vanilla bean (sic) ice cream. The other, a vanilla marshmallow with spicy citrus fruits and lemon curd; the guilt level was very high! Both were a bit cloying.
In summary an enjoyable but expensive excursion out to the fringes of the SG post codes.

Revue date: June 2008


Sheesha
LOCATION: 126a High Road, Loughton
TELEPHONE: 0208 923 6319
PARKING/ ACCESS: Public parking only
CUISINE: Lebanese / Middle Eastern
COVERS: 50
SMOKING: permitted
FOOD:   ****
Comment:  Turkish with a difference
AMBIANCE:   *****
Comment: Mystical
SERVICE:  *****
Comment: first class and knowledgeable
VALUE:  ****

 
Out of the blue came a message: there is a brand new Lebanese restaurant in Loughton, have you been yet? Well the short answer was not yet. The advertising for Sheesha implies a “decadent atmosphere”; not a description to encourage a visit!  Located at the South end of the High Street near a couple of public car parks, it is easy to find. The word Sheesha is derived from a Middle Eastern word to describe a smoking pipe - one is available for use after a meal; although to be fair there was not a lot of evidence of smoking when we visited.  The business is being run by two young men: Ravin and Naz, who have modeled the modern wine bar down stairs on a West End hotel; while the soundproofed upstairs is designed to be an escape [from reality?], into Lebanon. This is aided by a regular visit by a belly dancer late in the evening, for 30 minutes or so.
The menu is comprehensive but compact; the staff will help your selection by explaining the meaning of the language used.  There are specials of the day, plus recommended menus for two or four persons, which are very generous. All Middle Eastern food has a similarity, harking back to the days of the Ottoman Empire, being a variation on Turkish cuisine. We were not surprised to find meat courses based upon chicken and lamb [no pork or beef]; vegetarians have a good choice. Alcohol however is available, and there are two lists, fine wines and everyday. Hence a visitor can choose easily, but the prices are as ever, on the high side. We chose the house red which was an Australian Grenache, which was full of flavour, but obviously young. A good choice, nevertheless.
Dips and olives appeared at the same time as our wine, very nice!
Our selections: Starters, which were excellent, and both given full 5 points were: “Moutabal”, based on aubergine, with sesame and lemon. Absolutely delicious, but not the colour expected! Mine was a special, and again superb: Kellaj Halloum (halloum cheese on grilled pita bread with chick peas) very pleasantly crunchy.
The local water arrived at this point – a trifle late. Mains: Lamb Meshwi [pieces of lamb marinated and grilled served with mixed leaf salad, humus dip and rice]. Very good  4 points.  The other was the daily special, roasted lamb with rice; only gave 3 points for this dish, because despite being very delicately herbed, the lamb was dry and a bit chewy. Finally the sweets, Baclawa, [small sweet pastries] was not that special, and “Mohallabia” [baked vermicelli with double cream, syrup and pistachio] was deemed a bit over the top for the limited stomach space available!  Both given 3 points.
Overall impression was positive; certainly different. I suspect the bigger the group going, the more enjoyable it is. It is a very sociable restaurant.  Two caveats: smoking is allowed, and more importantly access is up narrow stairs, so the disabled may have their meals downstairs in the wine bar if they wish.
  Oh yes! The bottomless supply of mint tea is complimentary, and very refreshing.
Review  Date:10-06

Sopwell House
LOCATION: Cottonmill Lane, St Albans, AL1 2HQ
TELEPHONE: 01727 750412
PARKING/ ACCESS: own car park
CUISINE: Modern British
COVERS: 70
FOOD:    *****    :  modern cuisine well prepared
AMBIANCE:   *****    :  excellent
SERVICE:  ****     :  very good
VALUE:  ***       :  adequate
COST (TWO courses including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £42:00

The hotel, part of a privately owned group of three, is aimed squarely at the “chill-out” market and the sports and keep fit brigade. The corridors are festooned with pictures of footballers and their pennants [there is even a plaque proudly acclaiming Sven. as opening their new dining room] - which is where we ate. This is a very nice addition to the venue, being very light and airy, and in a modern style.  The white linen and silver-ware were very attractive, but there was a background of piped music, albeit of a slow pace. Iced water appeared immediately, as did bread for the table; this was a choice of two: white and crisp, or brown with raisins and sweet. I would have liked a brown and not sweet personally.
The menu for lunch was quite extensive, and would provide choices for all. If you go in the evening, be prepared for higher costs.
We both opted for a starter of smoked salmon, scrambled egg, a cress with lemon oil. This deserved a full five points, although to honest I did not discern the lemon oil. The scrambled egg was just right, and the added salmon added just the correct amount of flavour, topped off with the cress -just a hint of pepper.
Mains again were given high points. The originality of duck leg with mangetout, Jersey Royals and anis jus, produced a very acceptable combination of flavours. It would have only too easy to have swamped the duck with the anise, but it was very well balanced, and J. thoroughly enjoyed it. Although a confirmed carnivore, I opted for a risotto of mushrooms and rocket, with a poached egg. This again is not a dish to prepare in advance (except perhaps the rice).  But I was forced to give a four to this dish, being exceptionally tasty, but a trifle glutinous.
We decided that the desserts at £7 could be left for others.
We found the venue attractive at lunch time, ant it is worth mentioning that the brasserie is being upgraded soon, for bar type snacks - overlooking the pool area.


Revue date: July 2008

Spice Merchant, le
LOCATION: 14 High Street, Ware
TELEPHONE: 01290 468383
PARKING/ ACCESS: public parking nearby
CUISINE: Pan Asian
COVERS: 130
SMOKING: only in bar area
FOOD:   xxxxx   Comment: highly competent
AMBIANCE:   xxxx   Comment: Modern
SERVICE:  xxxxx  Comment: good
VALUE: xxxx Comment: very good value

Imram Chowdhury and Abdul Numim have brought East Herts some sophisticated Asian culinary skills from central London. The kitchen can provide the diner with what ever they desire from the Indian sub-continent; as well traditional international cuisine. We went mid week, in the evening; and among the diners was a couple who had travelled from Watford to Ware in order to continue their relationship with the two partners – quite a compliment.
All dishes were unusual and explanations were readily available, none was over-facing, and all were attractively presented.
Service was of a high order, and very professional. After we placed our order water arrived together with our wine; this was a recommendation – a Shiraz – which I found surprising, since I have generally opted for a light, chilled beer when eating spiced food: the wine did work, but so would the light beer.
We started with a house platter of starters and dips, good enough for anyone (vegetarian was supplied automatically with the carnivore selection). Highly enjoyable with the papadoms provided. One main course was a lamb Rogan Josh, very tender lamb with spices, tomatoes and onions, plus naan bread – delicious: 5 out of 5. The other main was chicken Murgh Makhani – delicately cooked dish again given full marks. Deserts again were prepared in the kitchen, and tended to be sweet. Our choice was Halwa, a carrot cake together with ice cream; not up to the same standard, so only 3 points.
It is worth mentioning the décor: not a bit of flock wallpaper in sight, and a very modern appearance, together with a stylised painting on one wall depicting a spice seller of indeterminate nationality! Starched, crisp linen is always a ac, which we found a trifle intrusive, but an observation brought an instant reduction in volume: all part of the good service.
Over all, an extremely enjoyable outing, highly recommended, even for those a bit nervous about spiced dishes.
Special low priced specials are often available at lunch time.
Review  Date:1-06


St Michael’s Manor
LOCATION: Fishpool Street, St Albans
TELEPHONE: 01727 864444
PARKING/ ACCESS: Own car park; easy access
CUISINE: Modern British
COVERS: 90
SMOKING: No
FOOD:   *****
Comment: Well selected, and prepared with joie de vivre
AMBIANCE:   ****
Comment: a delightful setting overlooking mature gardens
SERVICE:  *****
Comment: faultless
VALUE: *****

Every now and again we all have a reason to pamper ourselves, or more likely a special person. This month’s outing is to a venue that fits the bill perfectly. Located in the older part of St Albans near the Abbey and the Abbey Gardens runs Fishpool Street. A drive or walk down here is to turn the clock back a few hundred years. Towards its end, approaching Verulamium, is St Michael’s Manor – a 500 year old manor house, transformed in the 60s into a hotel. It is now run by the third generation: Richard Newling Ward as a retreat for both business and private individuals. The décor is totally in keeping with the property, but fresh and a delight to see.
The vista from the conservatory dining room is especially good in the Spring and Summer, as one looks over the garden towards a lake. Our party of two couples decided hat this year we would celebrate the two wives’ birthdays here, and so we booked in.
We were disconcerted when our name could not be found on the table plan when we arrived. It transpired that the clerk spelt our name incorrectly. From this inauspicious start, the evening got better and better. The a la carte menu is easy to follow, and it is changed every 3 months or so (is May the same as February?). With eleven mains, eight starters and nine desserts, it is easy to make a personal choice. The wine list is not too long and provides a good selection from old and new wineries; but the prices are on the high side. Our choice was McGuigan Merlot, from Australia.
As with most innovative chefs, there were a couple of “free” miniature courses, presumably to test reaction… The first of these arrived with our drinks, after we had settled down: I suspect it was a hog pâte with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. Excellent.
For the first time in well over a year the wine came at the correct temperature; and didn’t it make a difference to its enjoyment. Also the “Trois Vallée” water came exactly as it should. We attempted to have twelve dishes between us.
Starters: a salad of asparagus, rocket, goats cheese and tomatoes, was well dressed and delicious (4½); classic smoked salmon, which came with a dark German bread was just right (4½). I must mention the bread roll selection here: a choice of 3 varieties was available and all deemed excellent. The other starter chosen was smoked duck and orange tarte Tatin, given a full 5.
Mains consisted of a superb fillet of beef served with a spring roll and Savoy cabbage; given a full 5, with a comment about the correct quantity of vegetables served with it. Aylesbury duck with plum and a spice jus was cooked as requested and was really enjoyed, all the flavours melding together: given 4½ because it was a bit fatty on the plate (the first slice had to be discarded). Pan fried Seabass with lemon grass and ginger risotto was enjoyed as regards texture and flavour, but deemed too salty. The final main course was loin of lamb with herb faggot, potatoes and French beans. All the flavours enhanced each other; given 4½.
I do despair about nomenclature sometimes; here we have faggots without pork or pork offal, along with tarte Tatin without apple! I know it’s meant to create a picture in the mind, but really …
Never mind we are not here to give marks for the English language, and the enjoyment continued with another freebie: a banana mousse with dark chocolate. Again I could have enjoyed more of this! The orange and carrot sponge was a disappointment, being too dry, despite the custard, only 3 marks. The other three desserts were given full 5 points: a vanilla cheesecake with an assiette of strawberries was stated as being one of the best! And the final sweet of fresh figs roasted with cinnamon, vanilla ice cream and Banyuls sauce was heavenly. I had to ask the waiter about this sauce: Banyuls is an AC wine from Southern France near the Pyrenees: a fortified wine available as sweet as here, or dry - what a find! What a wonderful combination.
This venue again reinforces the obvious truth that a well run privately owned establishment with carefully chosen staff will always knock the stuffing out of a group establishment. Highly recommended, for something special, or for any time if your budget allows!
Review  Date:8-05

Stable Door
LOCATION: 12 High Street, Welwyn, AL6 9EQ
TELEPHONE: 01438 715200
PARKING/ ACCESS: use public parking
CUISINE: Spanish, tapas bar
COVERS: 24
SMOKING: no
FOOD:    ****   :  excellent selection
AMBIANCE:   ***     :  a bit cramped
SERVICE:  ****    :  ok
VALUE:  ***     :   fair value
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £55

Refurbished and renewed by Chris van den Heever to create a tapas bar in Old Welwyn. Report received:
“Masses more selection. Chosen were: fishcakes, squid, smoked haddock stuffed peppers and chicken wings., all nicely presented with interesting sauces - about £5 each.  Platters; the paella which was tasty with big prawns on top but we expected more, and the seafood platter which was excellent (hot) about £19 each for two persons….  Some salad would have been nice and our friends would have liked some potato or some such with their seafood platter.  The deserts were delightful to behold. (£5 each).  The bill for 2 was about £55. 
Service was fine, not rushed.  But they did forget my dessert bringing me ice cream by mistake.  Then nothing happened for ages, they then apologised. I would certainly go again” CB
Revue date: 8/06


Straw Hat
TELEPHONE: 01279 722434
PARKING/ ACCESS: own car park
CUISINE: oriental
COVERS: 36
SMOKING: no
FOOD:  ****   Comment: excellent preparation
AMBIANCE:   ***   Comment: comfortable
SERVICE:  ****   Comment: good
VALUE: ****   (but attempted to overcharge.)

Situated just out of Harlow, this venue has had a good reputation for many years – under various owners. Originally French it is now Chinese/ Thai/ Japanese. We were served a selection of dishes intended for those who do not know their way around Oriental cuisine. The service was first class and the food was well described, but may not be fully authentic. Prices of drinks were high, astronomical in fact; a Côtes du Rhone being £50; there was also an attempt at a group booking to charge for glasses of water. This proprietor needs to show good value to encourage knowledgeable diners.
Review  Date: 1-05

Sword in Hand, The
LOCATION: Westmill, SG9 9LQ
TELEPHONE: 01763 271356
PARKING/ ACCESS: Own small car park, otherwise on road.
CUISINE: Pub/ European
COVERS: 30
SMOKING: No

FOOD:           ***    : generous portions
AMBIANCE:    **    :  a bit tired
SERVICE:        **   :  very slow, but with a smile
VALUE:         ***   : reasonable value for money

COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons):  £54:00

This popular pub has a wide choice of food in both the bar and attached restaurant; parking in the car park is difficult if it is busy, but on road is permissible, but you should consider other village traffic in choosing your space. Very suitable for callers of all ages; there is a play area for young children; The Sword will satisfy most callers. I am sorry to say we were not totally enthusiastic the furnishings were pub style but rather grubby. The room could have done with a good “bottoming”
On our particular lunch time visit, we ate as follows: starters: vegetable spring rolls with a plum sauce. I enjoyed this item, but wonder if the ingredients were made in the kitchen or bought in; the starter was”breaded mixed cheeses” with a cranberry dip. The three cheeses although correctly cooked were sadly a bit heavy and synthetic - partially left by more than one diner. Both starters came with a nicely dressed salad. House wines are available by the glass even if the wine list omits to say so, and offer good value, with a small choice. The full list was quite compact, and offered a middle of the road selection at reasonable prices. The requested Eau de Trois Valleé arrived promptly, sans lemon, but with ice; no glasses however – so we used some spare wine glasses. The main courses were a Thai fishcake salad with a sweet chilli dip, and a beef stir fry. The stir fry was enormous, and I could not finish it. The vegetables were cooked to perfection: nicely crunchy, but rather over oily for my taste. The bee, however, was another story: I regret to say I did have to pass a comment about it to the waitress. I would have preferred a smaller quantity of high quality meat, rather than the mountain of poor meat that arrived: at lease 50% had to be discarded because if either fat of gristle: not good. There was no response from the kitchen. The fishcakes were reported as being very synthetic and heavy, but the salad was O.K, partially left too.
Puddings: the New York Cheesecake was good, and enjoyed; the cheese selection was a bit over the top for quantity, was both shared, and partially left.
This privately owned pub has done a good job in promoting itself around the area; it may be that this is all that is needed to succeed, but if they want to attract fine diners; a little attention is needed. I have no hesitation in recommending it for a good value meal out.


Revised date: October  2008


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Terranova
LOCATION: Stanborough Park, Welwyn Garden City, AL8 6DR
TELEPHONE: 01707 333223
PARKING/ ACCESS:  own small car park, also public parking
CUISINE: Italian
COVERS: 60
FOOD:    ****   :  Well prepared, traditional
AMBIANCE:   ****    :  Modern
SERVICE:  ****    :  slick
VALUE:  ****    :  above average
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £43

Welwyn Garden City is a bit of an eating desert – strangely, because there are plenty of diners around – perhaps they all want to get out of the new town to eat!  There is an oasis however by the lakes in Stanborough Park:: “Terranova”. We have been here perhaps only twice in the establishment’s several years existence. The original proprietor Vincenzo and his partner are still there. We turned up without reservation on a Saturday night (not recommended), and despite being very busy, we were found a table for two, extremely quickly.  The atmosphere is one of bustle and efficiency, with service being rapid and prompt; it could easily have felt pressured - but it was not, because of the very amiable Italian waiting staff.
A very extensive Italian menu is available at reasonable prices: starters at about £5, mains £10, and desserts at £3:50. Wines are mostly Italian, and priced at reasonable mark-ups; the house wine is very acceptable.
I had a rather watery minestrone soup, well flavoured but lacking in substance, J’s three coloured salad was deemed very enjoyable, with an appeal to the eye as well as the palate, being nicely dressed. Water with ice and lime appeared promptly, along with bread and butter, and our wine.
Main courses at £9:25 were two different veal dishes. We were very impressed with the quality of the meat, and the accompaniments were just right; one a mushroom sauce, the other a Masala wine sauce.
We decide to forgo desserts, but finished with good cups of coffee.
Revue date: 6/07
Three Horseshoes, the NOW CLOSED
LOCATION: 136, East Common, Harpenden, AL5 1Aw
TELEPHONE: 01582 713953
PARKING/ ACCESS: own car park
CUISINE: English
COVERS: 30  ish
FOOD:    **   : passable
AMBIANCE:   *   :  poor
SERVICE:  *   :  non existent
VALUE:  *   :  impossible to say
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons):

Four of us drove from Hertford to this posh side of Harpenden on one of the sunny days of summer; having booked on a promotional voucher.
We arrived, introduced ourselves to the young waitress, and she suggested, that , as it was such a nice day, we might like to eat in the garden. We readily agreed and trooped out into the large garden. The only other member of visible staff , probably the duty manager, appeared and presented us with some menus. We rapidly realised that this was the standard menu not the promotion. We pointed this out, and we were told that WE COULD NOT EAT IN THE GARDEN ON THE PROMOTION!.
We trouped back inside, and eventually the inside waitress noticed us, and we stated our situation, and asked for the appropriate menu. She was disconcerted, and went off. She reappeared, and stated there was one dish available: a starter of salmon and cheese, and a main of liver and bacon. This shook us! No choice at all. For various reasons we did not fancy either of these dishes, and we were told in effect “that was it”. I asked what they would do if a vegetarian turned up. I was told quite firmly that there was no variation , and that we were they first group to come on the offer.
We were all greatly disappointed, but did not fancy searching around for another eatery at this time. So we ordered a single course each from the main menu which presumably meant we could have eaten outside! Finished and left promptly.
When I questioned the male member of staff I was given the impression of poor management and non existent professional oversight. This pub is part of the spice Group, and has  confirmed our feeling that they have totally lost their way.
They announce a listing in Michelin’s Eating Out  we can only assume this is just a list, not a recommendation.
Don’t go.

Revue date: Jul 2008


Tilbury, The
LOCATION: Watton Road, Datchworth. SG3 6TB
TELEPHONE: 01438 815550
PARKING/ ACCESS: own car park
CUISINE: English
COVERS: 40
FOOD:    ***      :  Starters are the best part of the menu
AMBIANCE:   *****   :  rather basic, plain tables, a bit noisy
SERVICE:  ***      :  adequate rather than polished
VALUE:  **       :  restaurant prices for pub style food
COST (including all drinks and 10% service for two persons): £64

Despite its heritage – Paul Bloxham, has an influence here, this establishment has not got its act together properly. A change of name from “The Inn on the Green” has not produced an updated image. NB, the phone number is not correct in several local directories.  
Starter prices vary between £5 and £8; mains from £12 (mussels) to £19 (fillet steak), with sauces and vegetables charged extra; puddings around £4:50.
Three of us went here, and after a stumble around the dark car park, we found ourselves in a pub with a dining area, with willing waiting staff.
Our drinks of Rioja arrived promptly; costing £4:50 each glass, together with our jug of “Trois Vallée” water.
Starters were given a full 5 points. One being a tart of mushrooms, asparagus, and egg with a hollandaise sauce was deemed exceptional, and my Terrine foie gras and guinea fowl with a pear chutney and brioche deserved 4 points. (I had to order more brioche).
On to the mains which were not of the best.
A special of chicken with garlic potatoes and spinach, was not cooked right through, and was described as “dry”, and only given 3 points
Grilled rump of lamb with tomatoes and chips was disappointing, only given 3 points.
The local duckling with bashed root vegetables was tender enough, but lacking in flavour; its accompanying sauce was a bit of a mystery.
Puddings were all given 3 points as well: chocolate cheesecake; profiteroles (chocolate sauce and no cream); and crème brulé were the chosen selection. Coffee was excellent and reasonably priced (£1:50).
A very popular venue, but has not quite decided its image.  Booking necessary.

Revue date: 6/07

Vine, The
LOCATION: 22 High Street, Ware
TELEPHONE: 01920 462462
PARKING/ ACCESS: Public Parks only.
CUISINE: Modern European
COVERS: about 40
SMOKING: not in dining area
FOOD:   *****
Comment: well above average
AMBIANCE:   ***
Comment: “GastroPub” (i.e. traditional pub ambiance, plus a simple dining area and above average food)
SERVICE:  ****
Comment: well trained and enthusiastic
VALUE: *****

Situated on a very busy street corner The Vine is a pub with tables outside in dry weather, and a line of basic chairs and tables with cutlery wrapped in paper serviettes in the dining area. Apparently very popular with the locals for a drink with or without food. The young owners have only been here for two years but they have turned around a rather tired business in that time, and changed the client image for the better. Amazingly they have found it possible to open two more eateries in the Cambridge area in this short time. I say amazingly, because these two young men only control the concept and menu design – they are not chefs themselves. We were handed a sheaf of menus: Deli selection, Lunch menu, Puddings, Evening menu and wine list(a reasonable selection, average prices).
The Deli selection is really a cute way of saying starters. There is a selection of 12 items here, and an implied minimum of 3 for a fixed price: be warned you will only manage one per person! We were each going for the “3 for £5:85” offer, – but the waitress helpfully suggested we

RATINGS;
1*- a disappointment                                         
2*- fair value/service
3*- good value/service
4*- tell your friends
5*- outstanding/ perfect